Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
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( 041 241 23 39; www.murovenezia.com ; Campo Bello Vienna 222, San Polo; 9am-3pm & 5pm-2am Mon-Sat;
Rialto) No velvet rope here, though it's the kind of buzzing, urban-chic place at which
you'd expect to find one. The throng at Muro's sleek aluminum cicheti counter are on to
something - no one wants to miss sopressa with porcini cream, or smoked goose and
arugula crostini. Prices are friendly too, with wines by the glass starting at €2 and cicheti
from €1.50 to €3.50.
CANTINA DO SPADE
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PUB
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( 041 521 05 83; www.cantinadospade.it ; Calle delle Do Spade 860, San Polo; 10am-3pm & 6-10pm; Ri-
alto) Since 1488 this bar has kept Venice in good spirits, and the laid-back young manage-
ment extends warm welcomes to spritz -sipping Venetian regulars and visiting connois-
seurs drinking double-malt Dolomite beer and bargain Venetian DOC cab franc. Come
early for market-fresh fritture (batter-fried seafood; €2 to €6) and stick around for local
gossip (free).
TAVERNA DA BAFFO
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OSTERIA
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( 041 524 20 61; www.tavernadabaffo.com ; Campiello Sant'Agostin 2346, Santa Croce; 7am-2am; San
Tomà) This osteria named for Casanova's licentious poet pal Giorgio Baffo is actually a
converted chapel, stripped to its naked brick walls. With strong spritz, draught beer and
tasty house wines, there may be impromptu poetry from the campo crowd by night's end.
Arrive early at summer happy hours to claim outdoor tables, bruschetta orders and the
bartender's attention.
BARCOLLO
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( 041 522 81 58; Campo Cesare Battista 219, San Polo; 5pm-midnight; Rialto) Consider permission
to get happy granted: barcollo means stagger. DJs and sass from the handlebar-mus-
tachoied bartender put the crowd in a party mood, especially on Wednesday buffet nights
that draw university students by the dozen. Prices aren't staggering - an ombra (half
glass) of DOC wine plus snacks of polpette (meatballs) or fried calamari runs under €5.
BAR
AI POSTALI
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BAR
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