Sestieri Di San Polo & Santa Croce - Venice and the Veneto - page 239

pork) with crusty bread. Angle for canalside spots, or get comfortable inside amid bicycle
parts and pre-war English gin bottles.

VENICE'S GOURMET CENTRAL: THE RIALTO DISTRICT

Rialto Market ( Click here ) offers superb local produce next to the legendary Pescaria , Venice's 600-year-old
fish market. Nearby, backstreets are lined with bakeries, bacari (hole-in-the-wall bars) and notable gourmet
shops. Don't miss Aliani MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 041 522 49 13; Ruga Vecchia di San Giovanni, San Polo
654; 8.30am-1pm & 5-7.30pm Tue-Sat; Rialto Mercato) , with gourmet specialities from balsamic vineg-
ar (aged 40 years) to bottarga (dried fish-roe paste); Casa del Parmigiano MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 041 520
6 525; www.aliani-casadelparmigiano.it ; Campo Cesare Battisti 214; 8am-1.30pm Mon-Wed, to 7.30pm Thu-
Sat; Rialto) , with cheeses ranging from fresh Dolomite goat's-milk tomino to potent parmigiano reggiano
aged 18 months; and Drogheria Mascari ( Click here ), a historic emporium lined with spices, sweets and truffles
galore, with a backroom stash of speciality Italian wines. For organic edibles from baby food to biscuits plus sus-
tainably produced wines, visit Rialto Biocenter MAP

GOOGLE MAP ( 041 523 95 15;

www.rialtobiocenter.it ; Calle della Regina, Santa Croce 2264; 8.30am-1pm & 4.30-8pm Mon-Thu,

8.30am-8pm Fri & Sat; San Stae) .

ANTICO PANIFICIO €
MAP GOOGLE MAP
( 041 277 09 67; Campiello del Sol 929, San Polo; pizzas €8-10; 7-11pm Wed-Mon; San Silvestro) Most
Venetian pizzerias pander to tourists, but this historic spot is packed with a neighbourhood
crowd - be prepared to lunge at open tables when you get the nod, or get yours to go.
Basic options like pizza with sausage and/or mozzarella di bufala are reliably tasty, but
adventurous foodies pile on anchovies, squash blossoms and other seasonal speciality top-
pings.

PIZZERIA

PASTICCERIA TREVISAN €
MAP

PASTRIES & CAKES

GOOGLE MAP

( 041 71 85 23; Calle Sechera 636, Santa Croce; pastries €1-3; 7am-6.30pm Mon-Sat; ; Ferrovia)
Mini-profiteroles bursting with dark-chocolate mousse and flaky croissants laced with
apricot jam are perfect pick-me-ups after train rides or packaged B&B breakfasts, espe-
cially with a proper, scorching-hot Venetian macchiatone (an espresso liberally 'stained'
with milk).

ANTICHE CARAMPANE €€ VENETIAN

MAP GOOGLE MAP