Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
BAR
CANTINONE GIÀ SCHIAVI
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( 041 523 95 77; Fondamenta Nani 992; 8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; Zattere) Regulars gamely pass
along orders to timid newcomers, who might otherwise miss out on tuna-leek cicheti with
top-notch house soave, or pallottoline (mini-bottles of beer) with generous sopressa (soft
salami) panini . Chaos cheerfully prevails at this legendary canalside spot, where Accade-
mia art historians rub shoulders with San Trovaso gondola builders without spilling a drop.
IL CAFFÈ ROSSO
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( 041 528 79 98; Campo Santa Margherita 2963; 7am-1am Mon-Sat; Ca' Rezzonico) Sunny piazza
seating speeds recovery from last night's revelry, with espresso that opens eyes like a rip-
cord on Venetian blinds - until the cycle begins again at 6pm, with standing-room-only
happy-hour crowds. Locals affectionately call this red storefront 'al rosso' , and its inex-
pensive spritz generously splashed with scarlet Aperol gives visitors and locals alike an in-
stant flush of Venetian colour.
CAFE, BAR
OSTERIA ALLA BIFORA
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( 041 523 61 19; Campo Santa Margherita 2930; noon-3pm & 6pm-1am Wed-Mon; Ca' Rezzonico) Other
bars around this campo cater to spritz -pounding students, but this chandelier-lit medieval
wine cave sets the scene for gentle flirting over big-hearted Veneto merlot. Cured-meat
platters are carved to order on that Ferrari-red meat slicer behind the bar, and there are
placemats to doodle on and new-found friends aplenty at communal tables.
BAR
TEA ROOM BEATRICE
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( 041 724 10 42; Calle Lunga San Barnaba 2727a; 3-10pm; Ca' Rezzonico) After long museum
days, Beatrice offers a relaxing alternative to espresso bolted at a bar. Rainy days call for
iron pots of green tea and almond cake, and sunshine brings iced drinks and salty pistachios
to the garden patio. Gossip is a given in this discreet spot with Venice's best eavesdropping
(overheard: 'But I'm old enough to be your grandmother...')
TEA ROOM
CAFÉ NOIR
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CAFE, BAR
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