Sestiere Di Dorsoduro - Venice and the Veneto - page 193

RISTORANTE SAN TROVASO €€
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VENETIAN

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( 041 523 08 35; Rio Terà Carità 967; meals €15-30; noon-3.30pm & 7-11pm Fri-Wed; Accademia)
After the Accademia leaves you delirious with visual overload, come to your senses with
fried calamari, polenta, sarde in saor and a carafe of the house soave. Hidden behind the
museum, this sensibly priced rustic restaurant hastens recovery with brisk service, sunny
garden seating and an airy, wood-beamed dining room.

CASIN DEI NOBILI €€
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( 041 241 18 41; Calle Lunga San Barnaba 2765; meals €25-40; Fri-Wed; Ca' Rezzonico) A historic
bordello now serves dinner on a charming patio packed with curios and tables. The wide
menu selection ranging from pizza to steak is a boon for families and indecisive diners,
but quality does vary - housemade gnocchi, seafood pastas and chocolate soufflés are the
strong points. Book ahead, or join the wait list.

ITALIAN

ENOTECA AI ARTISTI €€€
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RISTORANTE

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( 041 523 89 44; www.enotecaartisti.com ; Fondamenta della Toletta 1169a; meals €40-50; noon-4pm &
6.30-10pm Mon-Sat; Ca' Rezzonico) Indulgent cheeses, exceptional nero di seppia (cuttlefish
ink) pasta, and tender tagliata (sliced steak) drizzled with aged balsamic vinegar atop
arugula are paired with exceptional wines by the glass by your oenophile hosts. Sidewalk
tables for two make great people-watching, but book ahead for indoor tables for groups;
space is limited.

ANTICA TRATTORIA LA FURATOLA €€€
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VENETIAN, SEAFOOD

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( 041 520 85 94; Calle Lunga San Barnaba 2870a; meals €40-60; 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Wed &
Fri-Sun, 7.30-10.30pm Thu; Ca' Rezzonico) Before becoming museum central, Dorsoduro was a
fishermen's neighbourhood where the furatola (provisioner) offered simple, honest fare.
La Furatola has gone upscale but still dishes seafood to Venetian fishermen's standards,
fresh from the Pescaria. Seafood appetisers are main events with canoce (mantis prawn),
followed by handmade pastas - go Sunday for ravioli alla busara (with prawn sauce).
Cash only.