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stairs is one of Italy's most unaccountably expensive restaurants - stick to the bar to save
financing for your breakthrough film.
OSTERIA ALL'ALBA
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( 340 124 56 34; Ramo del Fontego dei Tedeschi 5370; 10am-1am; Rialto) That roar behind the
Rialto means the DJ's funk set is kicking in at All'Alba. Squeeze inside to order salami
sandwiches (€1 to €2.50) and DOC Veneto wines (€5 to €6), and check out walls fes-
tooned with vintage LPs and effusive thanks scrawled in 12 languages.
WINE BAR
TEAMO
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( 347 549 90 82; Rio Terà della Mandola 3795; 8am-10pm; Sant'Angelo) Sunny tearoom by day,
sleek backlit alabaster bar by night and fabulous full time. Arrive by 6.30pm for first
choice of fresh cicheti at the bar and lookers in the leather banquettes - this bar swings
both ways, so there's something for everyone.
CAFE, BAR
CAFFÈ QUADRI
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CAFE, BAR
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( 041 522 21 05; http://www.alajmo.it ; Piazza San Marco 120; drinks €6-25; 9am-11.30pm; San Marco)
Powdered wigs seem appropriate in this baroque cafe, serving royal happy hours since
1638. The upstairs restaurant charges a king's ransom for finicky fare upstaged by Piazza
San Marco views, but the gilded downstairs cafe serves a princely €12 hot chocolate with
panna (whipped cream). Reserve ahead during Carnevale, when costumed Quadri revel-
lers party like it's 1699.
CAFFÈ CENTRALE
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LOUNGE
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( 041 296 06 64; www.caffeecentralevenezia.com ; Piscina Frezzaria 1659b; drinks €3.50-15; 7pm-2am Wed-
Mon; San Marco) Under moody Murano-chandelier lighting, you might spot Salma Hayek,
Spike Lee and sundry America's Cup sailors within these exposed-brick walls. Meals are
pricey and canalside VIP tables chilly, but Centrale draws La Fenice post-opera crowds
with signature foamy spritz cocktails, midnight snacks, chill-out DJ sets and occasional
live jazz.
TORINO@NOTTE
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BAR
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