Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
»
San Marco
CHIESA DI SAN ZULIAN
( 041 523 53 83; Campo San Zulian; 9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, to 7.30pm Sun; San Marco)
F
Founded
in 829, San Zulian got a Sansovino makeover funded by physician Tomasso Rangone,
who made his fortune selling syphilis cures and secrets to living past 100 (he died at 84).
The doctor is immortalised in bronze over the portal, holding sarsaparilla - his VD 'mir-
acle cure'. Inside are works by Palma il Giovane and Veronese's
Dead Christ and Saints
.
CHURCH
PALAZZO FRANCHETTI
MAP
PALACE
GOOGLE MAP
(Istituto Veneto di Scienze Lettere ed Arti; 041 240 77 11;
www.istitutoveneto.it
;
Campo Santo Stefano 2842; ex-
hibits vary, cafe admission free; 10am-7pm daily; Accademia)
Three Venetian families originally
lived at this 16th-century Grand Canal palace, and they didn't agree on decor. When Arch-
duke Frederick of Austria snapped up this Gothic palace in the 19th century, he unified
competing styles with a modern makeover. The Franchetti family lived here after inde-
pendence and restored its Gothic fairy-tale look, including an
art nouveau staircase
dripping
with dragons.
The palace was home to a private bank from 1922-99, when the Veneto Institute of
Sciences, Letters and Arts moved in and began hosting arts expositions and academic con-
ferences (see website). The Palazzo Franchetti Caffè in the garden cloisters has baroque-
patterned window screens for a secluded espresso away from San Marco crowds.
CHIESA DI SAN VIDAL
( Campo di San Vidal 2862; 9am-noon & 3.30-6pm Mon-Sat; Accademia)
F
Built by Doge Vitale
Falier in the 11th century, Chiesa di San Vidal got a 1706-14 Palladian facelift to comem-
morate Doge Francesco Morosoni's victory over Turkish foes. Inside is
St Vitale on
Horseback and Eight Saints
by Vittore Carpaccio, featuring his signature traffic-light red
and miniaturist's attention to detail. The deconsecrated church now serves as a concert
venue (
Click here
).
CHURCH
