Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
marble walls. The brick basilica is clad in patchworks of marbles and reliefs from Syria,
Egypt and Palestine - priceless trophies from Crusades conquests and battles with Genoa.
At the southwestern corner is the
Four Tetrarchs
,
an Egyptian porphyry statue supposedly
representing four emperors of ancient Rome looted from Constantinople.
Facade
The front of the basilica ripples and crests like a wave, its five niched portals capped with
shimmering mosaics and frothy stonework arches. In the far-left portal, lunette mosaics
dating from 1270 show St Mark's stolen body arriving at the basilica - a story reprised in
1660 lunette mosaics on the second portal from the right. The far-right portal is another
masterpiece of architectural thievery: over Greek columns and a Moorish arch is a lacy
screen that might have been a Turkish sultan's balcony. Grand entrances are made through
the central portal, under an ornate triple arch with Egyptian purple porphyry columns and
13th- to 14th-century reliefs of vines, virtues and astrological signs.
Dome Mosaics
Blinking is natural upon your first glimpse of the basilica's glittering mosaics, many made
with 24-carat gold leaf fused onto the back of the glass to represent divine light. Just in-
side the narthex (vestibule) glitter the basilica's oldest mosaics:
Apostles with the
Madonna
, standing sentry by the main door for more than 950 years. The atrium's medi-
eval
Dome of Genesis
depicts the separation of sky and water with surprisingly abstract mo-
tifs, anticipating modern art by 650 years.
Last Judgment
mosaics cover the atrium vault
and the Apocalypse looms large in vault mosaics over the gallery.
Mystical transfusions occur in the
Dome of the Holy Spirit
, where a dove's blood streams
onto the heads of saints. In the central 13th-century
Cupola of the Ascension
, angels swirl
overhead while dreamy-eyed St Mark rests on the pendentive. Scenes from St Mark's life
unfold over the main altar, in vaults flanking the
Dome of the Prophets
(best seen from the
Pala d'Oro).
The roped-off circuit of the church interior is free and takes about 15 minutes. Silence
is requested, but gasping understandable. For entry, dress modestly (ie knees and
shoulders covered) and leave large bags around the corner at Ateneo di San Basso's free
one-hour
baggage storage
.
