Entertainment - Venice and the Veneto - page 96

Sports & Activities
Boating is the sport of choice in Venice, with the Italian passion for football falling a dis-
tant second. The great Italian sport of cycling is actually banned in central Venice, though
the Lido is a prime stretch of waterfront cycling turf and tandem bicycle rentals are avail-
able. To see the autumn colours of Sant'Erasmo's vineyards, Il Lato Azurro offers Bi-
cicheti, an afternoon bike-ride across the garden isle followed by wine and cicheti
(snacks). The mainland Veneto countryside offers easy routes through patchwork flatlands
and tougher challenges into the Dolomite foothills.
Running is gaining popularity in Venice, and though most locals stick to jogs through
the Giardini and along the Zattere, sure-footed runners attempt the mad dash from the
Brenta riverbanks to San Marco via pontoon bridges during the Venice Marathon.
ROWING
If this improbably floating city has one standing lesson to offer, it's that imagination
makes anything possible - including rowing standing up (voga alla veneta), which is the
closest non-Messiahs may get to walking on water. Regattas run from spring's ambitious
32km Vogalonga through autumn's costumed Regata Storica.
Lessons Learn to row from regatta champ Jane Caporal of Row Venice, and you'll be
hopping up on the poppa (rear oarlock footing) with the best of them.
Style Pied á Terre makes original furlane (rubber-soled boat shoes) in fashion-forward
shades.
Gondolas Get your seaworthy scale model for the bathtub at Gilberto Penzo or sign up
on the waiting list at Squero Di San Trovaso, where gondolas are still painstakingly hand-
shaped and repaired.
Forcole Forcola (oarlock) artisans Saverio Pastor, Franco Furlanetto and Paolo Bran-
dolisio will custom-carve your wooden oarlock to suit your height and weight to propel
your boat forward with minimum effort and maximum style - or at least make a compel-
ling conversation piece.
SAILING
Sailing is a year-round passion, especially vela al terzo , in traditional, shallow-hulled la-
goon vessels with triangular main sails. To get your feet wet in Venice's nautical scene,
look into sailing tours of the Venice lagoon and boating trips up the Riviera Brenta. You
might try bringing your own boat to the lagoon, but be advised that navigation is tricky for
newcomers to this treacherously shallow lagoon - even Napoleon was kept at bay by this
daunting system of channels.
Sailing classes are available at Isola di Certosa.