Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Amarone The Titian of wines: a profound, voluptuous red blended from Valpollicella
Corvina grapes. Complex and costly (€6 to €18 per glass), but utterly captivating while it
lasts, like a stormy love affair in a bottle.
Ribolla Gialla A weighty white with all the right curves from Friuli-Venezia Giulia, this
wine gets more voluptuous with age; irresistible with buttery fish, gnocchi and cheese.
Valpolicella A versatile grape that's come into its own with a bright young DOC name-
sake red wine that's more food-friendly than Amarone, a structured, aged version called
DOG Valpolicella Ripasso, and the DOCG sweet late-harvest Recioto della Valpolicella.
Lugana A mineral-rich, well-structured white worthy of Palladio from Trebbiano grapes
grown at the border of Veneto and Lombardy; a foodie favourite.
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso Intense and brooding, a Goth rocker that hits the right
notes. This order is guaranteed to raise your sommelier's eyebrow, and probably your bill.
Morgana beer A worthy Venetian craft beer from the owners of La Cantina: unpasteur-
ised, unfiltered and undeniably appealing on hot days.
Cafes
To line your stomach with coffee and pastry before your next giro d'ombra , check out
Venice's legendary cafe-bars, and skip milky cappuccino for a stronger, local-favourite es-
presso drink: macchiatone (espresso with a 'big stain' of hot milk). For local flavour, try
the Torrefazione Marchi ( Click here ) noxea : coffee beans are roasted in small batches
with hazelnuts in the roaster behind the bar, then ground and brewed into a nutty espresso.
Historic baroque cafes around Piazza San Marco like Caffé Florian ( Click here ) and
Caffé Quadri ( Click here ) serve coffee and hot chocolate to the sound of live orchestras -
though your heart might beat a different rhythm once you get the bill. Hint: Caffe Lavena
( Click here ) offers a €1 espresso at the counter. But this is Venice, and decadence is al-
ways in order - might as well order caffe correto (espresso 'corrected' with liquor), and
tango with a stranger.
Enoteche
Request qualcosa di particolare (something interesting), and your sommelier will accept
the challenge to reach behind the bar for one of Veneto's obscure varietals or innovative
wine. Even ordinary varietals take on extraordinary characteristics in Veneto growing re-
gions that range from marshy to mountainous, so a merlot or soave could be the most ad-
venturous choice on the menu. Ask for un ombra for starters, or you might end up with a
very interesting bill.
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