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( 0532 24 03 23; www.pizzeriaestebar.com ; Via delle Scienze 15; meals €20; lunch & dinner Tue-
Sun) No fanfare. No trumpets. Just a decent, family-run ristorante in business since 1975
that's still adhering to a well-worn and successful formula of great pizzas, formidable fish
dishes and simple but effective Emilian pasta specialities.
Il Sorpasso
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TRATTORIA
( www.trattoriailsorpasso.it ; Via Sarceno 120; meals €20-25; noon-2.30pm & 7.30-11.30pm Wed-Fri,
Sun & Mon, 7.30-11.30pm Sat) Funky yellow signage beckons you into this laid-back trattoria,
which tries out creative interpretations of traditional Emilian dishes. Pride of place is the
lasagne: al dente layers of red, green and black pasta underlaid with moist chunks of pork.
Assorted cookbooks and kids' games shorten the wait.
Osteria del Ghetto
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OSTERIA €€
( 0532 76 49 36; www.osteriadelghetto.it ; Via Vittoria 26; meals €25-30; noon-2.30pm &
7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sun) Yet another understated jewel amid the winding streets of Ferrara's
old Jewish ghetto, this osteria leads you through a nondescript downstairs bar up to a
bright upstairs dining room embellished with striking modern murals. The excellent menu
mixes Ferrara staples like cappellacci di zucca with a less predictable fish menu.
Al Brindisi
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OSTERIA €€
( www.albrindisi.net ; Via Adelardi 11; meals €25-30; 11am-midnight Tue-Sun) The oldest osteria in
the world (according to Guinness), this scruffy-meets-stylish wine bar was already an es-
tablished drinking den in 1435. Titian drank here, while the soon-to-be Pope John Paul II
dropped by 550 years later. Succinct pasta dishes are well supplemented by wine drawn
from racks that are thick with a healthy coating of Ferrara dust.
Trattoria de Noemi
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TRATTORIA €€
( 0532 76 90 70; www.trattoriadanoemi.it ; Via Ragno 31; meals €25-35; lunch & dinner Wed-Mon)
All of Ferrara's classic dishes are delivered con molto amore (with much love) here. Ar-
rive early (yes, it's busy) to get the city's best cappellacci di zucca , grilled meats and ma-
caroni pie. Enough said!
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