Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( 0521 03 98 00; www.centuryhotel.it ; Piazzale dalla Chiesa 5a; s/d/ste €80/120/200; ) Ho-
tels next to train stations are often scruffy little abodes designed for economically minded
fly-by-nighters, but the trussed-up Century, still smarting from a modern makeover, offers
slick four-star fixtures and amenities at three-star prices.
Palazzo dalla Rosa Prati
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( 0521 38 64 29; www.palazzodallarosaprati.co.uk ; Piazza del Duomo 7; s/d €150/300; ) Kick
back like Marie Antoinette in regal digs right next to Parma cathedral. Choose one of sev-
en historic suites all renovated to be appropriately posh and palatial.
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
Eating
Parma specialities need no introduction to anyone familiar with the food of planet Earth.
Both prosciutto di Parma (Parma ham) and parmigiano reggiano make excellent anti-
pasto plates accompanied by a good Sangiovese red. Nab one of the following perches
and dig in.
Trattoria del Tribunale
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( www.trattoriadeltribunale.it ; Vicolo Politti 5; meals €22; noon-11pm Sun-Fri, 5-11pm Sat) Walk
through a gauntlet of ham slicers and waiters gouging lumps out of giant parmigiano reg-
giano cheeses in a pungent entrance vestibule, and you've arrived at one of about 25 con-
tenders for Parma's best restaurant. Start with an elaborate plate of Parma ham, proceed to
the tortelli di Erbette (pasta stuffed with spinach in butter and Parmesan), and finish, if
you dare, with trippa alla parmigiana (tripe in Parmesan and breadcrumbs). Pure Parma!
TRATTORIA
La Duchessa
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PIZZERIA, EMILIAN
( 0521 23 59 62; www.laduchessaparma.com ; Piazza Garibaldi; pizzas from €5; noon-3.30pm &
7pm-midnight Tue-Sun) For atmosphere alone, this Piazza Garibaldi pit stop beloved by fam-
ished postperformance opera stars is well worth contemplating. It's primarily a pizzeria,
but the extensive menu conjures up other tricks such as tortelli stuffed with sweet zucca
(pumpkin). Athletic waiters rush up and down the stairs amid the din of crashing cutlery
and operatic voices.
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