Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Parco Ducale
( 6am-midnight Apr-Oct, 7am-8pm Nov-Mar)
Stretching along the west bank of the Parma
river, these formal gardens seem like Parma personified - refined, peaceful and with
barely a blade of grass out of place. They were laid out in 1560 around the Farnese fam-
provincial
carabinieri
(military police).
PARK
Casa Natale di Toscanini
MUSEUM
(
www.museotoscanini.it
;
Borgo R Tanzi 13; admission €2; 9am-1pm Tue, 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Wed-Sat,
2-6pm Sun)
At the Parco Ducale's southeast corner, the birthplace of Italy's greatest modern
conductor, Arturo Toscanini (1867-1957) retraces his life and travels through relics and
records. Of interest are his collaborations with acclaimed Italian tenor Aureliano Pertile.
La Casa del Suono
(Piazzale Salvo D'Acquisto; admission €2; 9am-6pm Thu-Sat, 2-6pm Sun)
Oh no, not another
church, you groan, until you realise that this one (the 17th-century Chiesa di Santa Elisa-
betta) has been converted into a funky modern museum that focuses on the history of mu-
sic technology. Review the 'ancient' 1970s tape recorders, ponder over jazz-age gramo-
phones and stop to listen under a high-tech 'sonic chandelier'.
MUSEUM
Sleeping
Hotel Button
( 0521 20 80 39;
www.hotelbutton.it
;
Borgo Salina 7; s/d €75/100; )
The Button grows
on you. Once you realise that, rather like Parma, it's not trying to win you over as a euro-
brandishing tourist, you'll fall hopelessly for its simple charms: the fresh breakfast crois-
sants, the made-to-order cappuccinos, the spacious rooms, and the quiet sense of order
and cleanliness. The location's just about perfect too.
HOTEL
€
Century Hotel
HOTEL
€€
