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full of swinging hams and pungent cheeses that also runs a popular grab-a-tray buffet. Fill
up on alluringly decorated cheese and meat boards, colourful salad bowls and a choice of
three to four daily pasta dishes. Prepare for queues.
GELATO
Gelateria Gianni
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( www.gelateriagianni.com ; Via San Vitale 2; noon-10pm) Edging Italy's most ubiquitous ice
cream chain, Grom, into third place is this ice-cream temple where generous dollops of
flavours such as white chocolate and cherry have brought a sweet ending to many an un-
dergraduate date night.
La Sorbetteria Castiglione
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( www.lasorbetteria.it ; Via Castiglione 44; 8.30am-midnight Tue-Sat, 9am-11.30pm Sun) Everyone
has a wondrous Italian ice-cream story and more than a few (including one of a recent
New York Times reviewer) were made in this temple to gelati. It's a bit peripheral to the
centre but worthy of the walk.
GELATO
Trattoria Fantoni
(Via del Pratello 11a; meals €15; noon-2.15pm & 8-10pm Tue-Sat, noon-2.15pm Mon) A much-
loved eatery dishing up classic Italian food at welcome prices. The atmosphere's jovial
and the decor is an agreeable clash of clutter and modern art.
TRATTORIA
P122@s
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PIZZERIA
(Via dei Musei 2-4; pizzas €6-9; 12:30-3:30pm & 7:30pm-1am) Purists don't go to Bologna for
the pizzas, but if you need to spiritually visit southern Italy, drop by this trendy spot with
wood-fired pies set under the porticoes near Piazza Maggiore.
Trattoria dal
Biassanot
( 051 23 06 44; www.dalbiassanot.it ; Via Piella 16a; meals from €25; noon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm
Tue-Sat, noon-2.30pm Sun) The waiters in bow ties suggest an underlying grandiosity, but the
Biassanot is about as down to earth as its earthy menu, which lists such rustic throwbacks
as wild boar, goat, and veal with balsamic vinegar and mushrooms. Get in early: the
TRATTORIA €€
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