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plex. Originally there were seven churches - hence the basilica's nickname Sette Chiese -
but only four remain.
Entry is via the 11th-century Chiesa del Crocefisso , which houses the bones of San Petro-
nio and leads through to the Chiesa del Santo Sepolcro . This austere octagonal structure
probably started life as a baptistery. Next door, the Cortile di Pilato is named after the cent-
ral basin in which Pontius Pilate is said to have washed his hands after condemning Christ
to death. In fact, it's an 8th-century Lombard artefact. Beyond the courtyard, the Chiesa
della Trinità connects to a modest cloister and a small museum . The fourth church, the Santi
Vitale e Agricola , is the city's oldest. Incorporating recycled Roman masonry and carvings,
the bulk of the building dates from the 11th century. The considerably older tombs of two
saints in the side aisles once served as altars.
Oratorio di Santa Cecilia
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CHURCH
(Via Zamboni 15; 10am-1pm & 2-6pm) This is one of Bologna's unsung gems. Inside, the
magnificent 16th-century frescoes by Lorenzo Costa depicting the life and Technicolor
death of St Cecilia and her husband Valeriano are in remarkably good nick, their colours
vibrant and their imagery bold and unabashed. The Oratorio hosts regular free chamber-
music recitals. Check the board outside for upcoming events.
University Museums
The world's oldest university has a slew of museums that make a break from the
ecclesiastical art/dark-church alternatives. Some of them are free. Most are in the Palazzo
Poggi OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP ( www.museopalazzopoggi.unibo.it ; Via Zamboni 33; admission €3;
10am-1pm & 2-4pm Tue-Fri, 10.30am-1.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm Sat & Sun) , where you can peruse
waxwork uteri in the Obstetrics Museum and giant tortoiseshells in the Museum of Natural
Sciences .
There's free entry to see the stuffed exhibits over at the Museo di Zoologia and the Museo
di Antropologia on nearby Via Selma 3.
MUSEUM
Pinacoteca Nazionale
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(Via delle Belle Arti 56; admission €4; 9am-1.30pm Tue-Wed, 9am-7pm Thu, 2-7pm Fri-Sun) The
city's main art gallery has a powerful collection of works by Bolognese artists from the
ART GALLERY
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