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dissections were held under the sinister gaze of an Inquisition priest, ready to intervene if
proceedings became too spiritually compromising.
Rather than a museum, the large room is a preserved anatomical theatre where trainee
surgeons once studied. Cedar-wood tiered seats surround a central marble-topped table,
while a sculptured Apollo looks down from the ceiling. The canopy above the lecturer's
chair is supported by two skinless figures carved into the wood.
Basilica di San Domenico
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CHURCH
(Piazza San Domenico 13; 9.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5.30pm Sat & Sun) Part of
Italy's attraction and myth is its hallowed ground. Every chapel in every church tells a
slightly different story. Luring you towards this basilica built in 1238 is the legend of San
Domenico, founder of the Dominican order, who died in 1221.
His remains lie in an elaborate sarcophagus in the Cappella di San Domenico , which was
designed by Nicola Pisano and later added to by a host of artists. Other famous ghosts
present in the church include Michelangelo, who carved the angel on the right of the altar
when he was only 19, and Mozart, who spent a month at the city's music academy and oc-
casionally played the church's organ.
San Colombano -
Collezione Tagliavini
( 051 1993 6366; www.genusbononiae.it ; Via Parigi 5; admission €10; 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-
Sun) A beautifully - repeat beautifully - restored church with original frescoes and a medi-
eval crypt rediscovered in 2007, the San Colombano hosts a wonderful collection of over
80 musical instruments amassed by the octogenarian organist, Luigi Tagliavini. Many of
the assembled harpsichords, pianos and oboes date from the 1500s and, even more sur-
prisingly, are still in full working order.
Listen out for regular free concerts.
MUSEUM
Chiesa di San Francesco
(Piazza San Francesco; 6.30am-noon & 3-7pm) Think Gothic. This dark, mysterious church
was one of the first in Italy to be built in the French Gothic style. Inside check out the
tomb of Pope Alexander V and the remarkable 14th-century marble altarpiece depicting
sundry saints and scenes from the life of St Francis.
CHURCH
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