Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( 040 30 14 60; Piazza Hortis 3; meals €24; 8am-9.30pm Tue-Sat)
Opened before WWII by
Mrs Rosa Caltaruzza (a portrait of whom still graces the wall), the family-run Siora Rosa
is still one of the most traditional of Trieste's buffets, set in a wonderfully retro room.
Sample sausages, sauerkraut and other Germanic and Hungarian offerings, or opt for the
dumplinglike gnocchi or seafood stews with fried polenta.
Buffet Da Pepi
(Via Cassa di Risparmio 3; meals €15; 8.30am-8pm Mon-Sat)
The counter here is a site of por-
cine carnage: legs, necks, bellies, tongues and testicles, all awaiting a slap of relish from
the huge ceramic jars and a grate of
kren
(horseradish). Hot, takeaway brisket or pork rolls
(€3) are great for lunch.
BUFFET
€
Buffet Rudy
(Via Valdirivo 32; meals €20; 10am-midnight Mon-Sat)
Rudy has been concocting traditional
boiled meats, cold cuts and beer since, oh, 1897. Come for the pork joints, served up with
the house sauerkraut or just drinks and snacks at the bar (this being the beer-iest of all the
buffets).
BUFFET
€
Pirona
PASTRIES & CAKES
€
(Largo Barriera Vecchia 12; 7.30am-8pm Tue-Sat)
This jewel-box pastry shop and cafe was
one of Joyce's favourites. Its nutty, spicy, boozy Triestine speciality cakes,
putizza,pres-
nitz
and
pinza,
are particularly good.
Gelateria Zampolli
(Via Carlo Ghega 10; 9.30am-midnight Thu-Tue)
Be prepared for the crowds if you want to
sample the city's best gelato: the Sachertorte flavour is a must, and its mousse-style range
can't be beaten.
GELATO
€
Al Bagotto
SEAFOOD
€€€
( 040 30 17 71;
www.albagatto.it
;
Via Cadorna 7; meals/degustation €50/60; 7.30pm-midnight
Mon-Sat)
This old-timer, with its dark, brooding dining room, could be stuffy, but it's far
