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with crowds stretching to the Grand Canal docks - there's no seating, and it's elbow room
only at Venice's friendliest bar counter.
Cantina Do Spade
PUB
( 041 521 05 83;
www.cantinadospade.it
; Calle delle Do Spade 860, San Polo; 10am-3pm &
6-10pm; Rialto)
Since 1488 this bar has kept Venice in good spirits, and the laid-back
young management extends warm welcomes to
spritz
-sipping Venetian regulars and visit-
ing connoisseurs drinking double-malt Dolomite beer and bargain Venetian DOC cab
franc. Come early for market-fresh
fritture
(batter-fried seafood; €2 to €6) and stick
around for local gossip (free).
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6
Cannaregio
Al Timon
WINE BAR
( 041 524 60 66; Fondamenta degli Ormesini 2754; 11am-1am Thu-Tue, 6pm-1am Wed;
Guglie)
Find a spot on the boat moored out front along the canal and watch the motley
parade of drinkers and dreamers arrive for seafood crostini and quality organic and DOC
wines by the
ombra
or carafe. Folk singers play sets canalside when the weather obliges;
when it's cold, regulars scoot over to make room for newcomers at indoor tables.
Agli Ormesini
PUB
(Da Aldo; 041 71 58 34; Fondamenta degli Ormesini 2710; 8pm-1am Mon-Sat; Madonna
dell'Orto)
While the rest of Venice is awash in wine, Ormesini offers more than 100 brews,
including reasonably priced bottles of speciality craft ales and local Birra Venezia. The
cheery, beery scene often spills into the street - but keep it down, or the neighbours will
get testy.
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