Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ani's original 1948 recipe: white-peach juice and
prosecco
) with a side of reflected glory.
Upstairs is one of Italy's most unaccountably expensive restaurants - stick to the bar to
save finances for your breakthrough film.
BAR
Torino@Notte
( 041 522 39 14; Campo San Luca 4592; 7pm-1am Tue-Sat; Rialto)
Free-form, eclectic and
loud, Torino adds an element of the unexpected to otherwise staid San Marco. By day it's
a cafe, but after 7pm locals roll in for €2 to €5 drinks and marathon DJ sessions of vintage
reggae and soul on vinyl. Stop by Friday and Saturday after 9pm for a late bite or nightcap
with live jazz, blues or rock.
TOP OF CHAPTER
6
Dorsoduro
Cantinone Già Schiavi
( 041 523 95 77; Fondamenta Nani 992; 8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; Zattere)
Regulars gamely
pass along orders to timid newcomers, who might otherwise miss out on tuna-leek
cicheti
with top-notch house Soave, or
pallottoline
(minibottles of beer) with generous
sopressa
(soft salami)
panini
. Chaos cheerfully prevails at this legendary canalside spot, where Ac-
cademia art historians rub shoulders with San Trovaso gondola builders without spilling a
drop.
BAR
Osteria alla Bifora
BAR
( 041 523 61 19; Campo Santa Margherita 2930; noon-3pm & 6pm-1am Wed-Mon; Ca' Rezzo-
nico)
Other bars around this
campo
cater to
spritz
-pounding students, but this chandelier-
lit medieval wine cave sets the scene for gentle flirting over big-hearted Veneto merlot.
Cured-meat platters are carved to order on that Ferrari-red meat slicer behind the bar,
there are place mats to doodle on and new-found friends aplenty at communal tables.
Il Caffè Rosso
CAFE, BAR
