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make tagliolini ai calamaretti (narrow ribbon pasta with tiny calamari) and tuna steak
with balsamic vinegar taste even better. At €7 to €9 for plates of pasta, you'll be forking
out half what diners pay along the waterfront in San Marco. Dinner is not served, but you
can get cicheti at the bar.
TOP OF CHAPTER
5 The Lido
Le Garzette
( 041 712 16 53; www.legarzette.it ; Lungomare Alberoni 32, Lido; meals €35-45; 12.30-2.30pm &
7-10.30pm mid-Jan-mid-Dec; ; Lido) Nestled amid gardens overflowing with red
radicchio, astringent fennel and dark-green courgettes is the rust-red agriturismo (farm-
stay accommodation) of Renza and Salvatore. Choose between a meat or a fish menu and
wait for the parade of organic dishes: crepes filled with juicy asparagus, lightly fried
Malamocco artichokes and mouthwatering pear tart made with farm eggs.
FARMSTAY €€
La Favorita
( 041 526 16 26; Via Francesco Duodo 33; meals €35-50; 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Wed-Sun,
7.30-10.30pm Tue, closed Jan-mid-Feb; Lido) For long, lazy lunches, bottles of fine wine and
impeccable service, look no further than La Favorita. The menu is as elegant as the sur-
roundings, giant rhombo (turbot) simmered with capers and olives, spider-crab gnochetti
(mini-gnocchi) and classic fish risotto. Book ahead for the wisteria-filled garden and well
ahead during the film festival, when songbirds are practically outsung by the ringtones of
movie moguls.
SEAFOOD €€
Drinking & Nightlife
The usual 'rules' don't seem to apply to drinking in Venice. Don't mix spirits and wine?
Venice's classic cocktails suggest otherwise; try a spritz , made with prosecco, soda water
and bittersweet Aperol or bitter Campari. No girly drinks? Tell that to burly boat-builders
enjoying frothy prosecco .
 
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