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cycled paper place mats on communal tables keep the focus on local food and local com-
pany - all memorable. Book ahead.
Osteria Boccadoro
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VENETIAN €€€
( 041 521 10 21; www.boccadorovenezia.it ; Campiello Widmann 5405a; meals €40-55; noon-3pm
& 7-10pm Tue-Sun; Fondamenta Nuove) Birds sweetly singing in this campo are probably
angling for your leftovers, but they don't stand a chance. Chef-owner Luciano's creative
crudi are two-bite delights - tuna with blood orange, sweet prawn atop tart green apple -
and fluffy gnocchi topped with spider crab are gone entirely too soon.
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5 Castello
Pasticceria Da Bonifacio
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PASTRIES & CAKES
( 041 522 75 07; Calle degli Albanesi 4237; pastries €1.50-4; 7am-8pm Fri-Wed; San Zaccaria)
Pastry awards line the wall in this tiny bakery where gondoliers and Venetian housewives
flock to devour the buttery, just-baked sweetness of almond croissants and take home
boxes of Venetian specialities such as zaletti (cornmeal biscuits with sultanas). As after-
noon wanes, the bakery turns into a makeshift bar as locals pop in for spritz and mam-
malucchi (deep-fried balls with candied fruit).
Osteria alla
Staffa
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MODERN VENETIAN €€
( 041 523 91 60; Calle dell'Ospedale 6397a; meals €20-35; 11.30am-3pm & 6-11pm; Ospedale)
With fish fresh from the Rialto every morning and a preference for organic veg and
cheese, Alberto's takes on Venetian classics have flavourful foundations. But this is home
cooking with a twist: the seafood selection looks like a modernist masterpiece with its
creamy, coiffed baccalà (cod) bedded on a rich, red radicchio leaf and baby octopus set
like lagoon flowers against a splash of apricot salmon.
Trattoria Corte
Sconta
MODERN VENETIAN €€€
 
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