Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Bequest added Kandinskys and Morandis to the modernist mix of de Chiricos, Mirós and
Moores, plus radical abstracts by postwar Venetian artists Giuseppe Santomaso and
Emilio Vedova.
Climb the creaky attic stairs past a phalanx of samurai warriors, guarding a princely
collection of Asian travel souvenirs. Prince Enrico di Borbone reached Japan when Edo
art was discounted in favour of modern Meiji, and Edo-era netsukes, screens and a lac-
querware palanquin are standouts in his collection of 30,000 objets d'art.
Chiesa di San Polo
CHURCH
(
www.chorusvenezia.org
; Campo San Polo 2118, San Polo; admission €3, with Chorus Pass free;
10am-5pm Mon-Sat; San Tomà)
Travellers pass this modest 9th-century Byzantine brick
church without guessing that major dramas unfold inside. Under the
carena di nave ceiling
,
Tintoretto's
Last Supper
shows apostles alarmed by Jesus' announcement that one of them
will betray him. Gian-domenico Tiepolo's
Stations of the Cross
sacristy
cycle shows on-
lookers tormenting Jesus, who leaps triumphantly from his tomb in the ceiling panel.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
TOUR THE ULTIMATE
WALK-IN CLOSET
Fashion alert: by popular demand, Palazzo Mocenigo now opens its secret attic storeroom the last Fri-
day of every month for fascinating tours through fashion history. Costume historians lead up to 15
people into the ultimate walk-in closet, and open cupboards to reveal 1700s cleavage-revealing, nude-
coloured silk gowns, men's 1600s embroidered peacock frockcoats with exaggerated hips, and other
daring fashions too delicate for permanent display. Reserve ahead for 11am and 2pm tours in Italian
and English (
041 270 03 70; tours €12).
TOP OF CHAPTER
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Cannaregio
Museo Ebraico
MUSEUM
