Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
hotel. The restrained rooms are all subtle shades and crisp fabrics, and the breakfasts and
homemade pastries are a treat.
La Fiasca
( 030 990 61 11;
www.trattorialafiasca.it
; Via Santa Maria Maggiore; meals €30; noon-2.30pm &
7-10.30pm Thu-Tue)
Serving up the kind of sauces you can't help dunking your bread into,
this authentic trattoria is tucked away in a back street just off the main square. The atmo-
sphere is warm and bustling, and the dishes are packed with traditional Lake Garda pro-
duce: tagliatelle with perch and porcini, and duck with cognac and juniper.
TRATTORIA
€€
Desenzano del Garda
POP 26,900
An easygoing commuter town 9km southwest of Sirmione, Desenzano del Garda is
known as the
porta del lago
(gateway to the lake). It's not as pretty as some of its counter-
parts, but its ancient harbour, broad promenades and vibrant Piazza Matteotti make for
pleasant wanderings. It is also a hub for nightlife in the summer.
Desenzano's best-known site is its well-preserved Roman mosaics at the
Roman Villa
(
030 914 35 47; Via Crocifisso 2; adult/reduced €2/1; 8.30am-7pm Mar-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Feb)
.
Built 2000 years ago, the villa was remodelled in the 2nd century, with most of the mosa-
ics being added in the 4th century. Wooden walkways lead directly over vivid scenes of
chariot-riding, grape-gathering cherubs.
For more information on the town, consult the main
tourist office
( 030 914 15 10; Via
Porto Vecchio 34; 9am-12pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat)
. For a light lunch and excellent aperitivo
head to
Caffe Italia
( 030 914 12 43;
www.ristorantecaffeitalia.it
;
Piazza Malvezzi 19; meals €25-35;
12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm)
.
The Valtenesi
The Valtenesi stretches languidly between Desenzano and Salò, its rolling hills etched
with vine trellises and flecked with olive groves. The main lake road heads inland, allow-
ing for gentle explorations of an array of wineries and small towns, including Padenghe
sul Garda, Moniga del Garda, Manerba del Garda and San Felice del Benaco.
