Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
WINE ROADS
South of Lago d'Iseo and stretching towards Brescia are the flourishing vineyards of the Franciacorta
wine region ( www.stradadelfranciacorta.it ) . It is perfect cycling country, with no high-rises and
plenty of villages to explore. In the Middle Ages, monks living in the area were granted privileges to
work the land. These 'franchises', or franchae curtes, were exempt from taxes, from whence origin-
ated the name. The Iseo and Brescia tourist offices can provide brochures and help book visits to
wineries (essential on weekdays).
You can pick up the wine route at Paràtico , which lies at the region's northwestern tip. The quaint
villages of Nigoline Bonomelli , Colombaro , Timoline and Borgonato form the heart of the comune
of Corte Franca and are home to most of the prestigious winemakers in the area. Just to the north of
them is Provaglio d'Iseo , the location of the 11th-century Monastero San Pietro in Lamosa
( www.sanpietroinlamosa.org ) which was founded by the Cluniac monks who first started to cultivate
the region. The complex sits above a 2-sq-km protected wetland ( www.torbiere.it ) , formed from
18th-century peat beds. In late spring the beds are smothered in water lilies.
If you're driving through the region, book yourself in to the Ristorante Gualtiero Marchesi
( www.marchesi.it ; meals €150-200; noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat, noon-2.30pm Sun) , set
in the luxurious country estate of the L'Albereta Hotel in Erbusco, and presided over by Gualtiero
Marchesi, one of the best-known names in contemporary Italian dining.
The route ends at Rodengo-Saiano , where you'll find another impressive monastic complex, the
Abbazia di San Nicola ( www.benedettiniabbaziaolivetana.org ) .
Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Milano
( 030 98 04 49; www.hotelmilano.info ; Lungolargo Marconi 4, Iseo; s €42-47, d €84-92; )
One of only two hotels in the centre of Iseo, the lakefront Milano is an excellent deal. It's
definitely worth paying fractionally more for the pleasant rooms with lake views (one-
week minimum stay mid-July to mid-August) - so you have a front row seat for sunset
behind the mountains over the lake.
HOTEL
Ristorante Monte Isola
( 030 982 52 84; www.ristorantemonteisola.it ; Località Carzano 144, Carzano; meals €25-35;
noon-3pm Tue, noon-3pm & 7-10pm Wed-Sun) It's worth jumping on a boat in Sale Marasino
just to get across to this restaurant on Monte Isola, where simply prepared lake fish is
served with endless views across the water.
ITALIAN €€
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