Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
MADONNA DEL GHISALLO
In the high-country village of
Magreglio
(497m), 7km south of Bellagio, stands a simple 17th-century
church known as the
Santuario della Madonna del Ghisallo
. But this is not just any old high-moun-
tain chapel.
The road up has frequently been included as a classic stage of the Giro d'Italia cycle race, and is
known to professional and amateur cyclists alike. The sanctuary long ago became a symbolic finishing
line for cyclists, who began leaving mementoes there. The place's importance for two-wheeled enthu-
siasts was such that Pope Pius XII declared the Madonna del Ghisallo the patron of cyclists. The gifts
and tokens left at the sanctuary down the years became so numerous that it was decided to open the
nearby
Museo del Ciclismo
( 031 96 58 85;
www.museodelghisallo.it
;
Via Gino Bartali 4; adult/
child €6/3; 9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 9.30am-5.30pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar) to contain the
overflow. The museum is devoted to all aspects of the business of cycling, with 100 film clips of great
moments in Italian cycling, memorabilia (including many bicycles) and temporary exhibitions -
ample reward for the punishing climb.
Western Shore
The western shore gets the most sunshine on the lake. For this reason it's lined with lavish
villas, where high-fliers, Arab sheiks and film stars reside. The shore stretches 75km from
Como north to Sorico; from here you can continue north into Switzerland or east into
Trentino-Alto Adige through the Valtellina valley.
CERNOBBIO TO LENNO
Ocean's 11
may have been shot at Bellagio's Vegas namesake, but scenes from
Ocean's
12
were filmed in the Lago di Como village of Cernobbio, at the 19th-century
Villa Erba
(Largo Luchino Visconti; closed to the public). Cernobbio is also home to the lake's most
magnificent hotel,
Villa d'Este
( 031 34 81;
www.villadeste.it
;
Via Regina 40; 10.30-11.30am &
3.30-4pm Mar-Nov)
. But if you don't have a cool €800 to €950 to spend a night you won't
get a glimpse of its palatial interiors. Garden visits are possible though in pre-booked
groups of 10 people or more. The other reason to come to Cernobbio is to make the gour-
met pilgrimage to romantic
Gatto Nero
( 031 51 20 42;
www.gattonerocernobbio.com
; Via Monte
Santo 69, Rovenna, Cernobbio; meals €60-70; noon-2pm & 7.30-10pm Wed-Sun, 7.30-10pm Tue)
,
situated in a peerless position above the lake.
If you're driving, follow the lower lakeside road (Via Regina Vecchia) north from
Cernobbio, which skirts the lake shore past a fabulous row of 19th-century villas (all
private) around
Moltrasio
. A few kilometres north is the villa-lined hamlet of
Laglio
, home
