Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
als). It's famous for its fish, so try the antipasto vegetable plate before diving into prawns,
sea bass or tuna. It also does all the Genovese staples - pesto,
salsa di noci
- and a good
stewed rabbit.
Drinking & Nightlife
The revamped Porto Antico has captured much of the youthful night-time scene, but never
underestimate the lure of the
caruggi
. You'll also find sophisticated new drinking spots
intermingled with old-time favourites throughout the city, particularly in the streets just
northwest of Piazza de Ferrari. Piazza delle Erbe is clad with cafe terraces where you can
linger over a coffee or something stronger.
La Nouvelle Vague
WINE BAR
(
www.nouvelle-vague.it
; Vico de Gradi 4r; noon-3pm Mon-Fri, 6.30pm-1.30am Mon-Sat)
The
caruggi
pull many surprises, but few are as sweet as this enclave of cool underground in-
tellectualism beneath the clammy confusion of Genoa's medieval streets. Nouvelle Vague
is a French-themed bookshop and bar where you can sip Italian wine while leafing
through the works of Genet and Proust.
Photos of a gamine Jean Seaberg adorn the walls, and the top-drawer aperitif snacks
that accompany all drink orders have led to numerous dinner cancellations.
Fratelli Klainguti
(Via di Soziglia; 8am-8pm)
Pre-dating cappuccinos and Lavazza coffee, Klainguti presum-
ably found other ways to pull in the clientele when it opened in 1828. These days, caffeine
and pastries do the trick for most people who are happy to pay over the odds to get served
by a waiter in a bow tie under an ostentatious chandelier.
Simple
primi
(first courses) start at a more reasonable €5.
CAFE
Café degli Specchi
(Via Salita Pollaiuoli 43r; mains €7-10; 7am-9pm Mon-Sat)
A bit of Turin disconnected and re-
located 150km to the south, this roaring-'20s, tiled art deco showpiece was (and is) a fa-
CAFE
