Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Chiesa del Gesù
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(Piazza Giacomo Matteotti; 4.30-7pm) Half-hidden behind the cathedral but emulating it in
its ecclesial brilliance, this former Jesuit church dating from 1597 has an intricate and lav-
ish interior. The wonderfully frescoed walls and ceiling are anchored by two works by the
great Dutch artist Rubens. Circoncisione (Circumcision) hangs over the main altar, and
Miracoli di San Ignazio is displayed in a side chapel.
CHURCH
Casa della Famiglia Colombo
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(Piazza Dante; admission €5; 9am-noon & 2-6pm Sat & Sun) Not the only house claiming to be
the birthplace of the navigator Christopher Columbus (Calvi in Corsica is another con-
tender), this one probably has the most merit, as various documents inside testify. Curi-
ously, it stands just outside the old city walls in the shadow of the Porta Soprana
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP gate (built in 1155).
Columbus allegedly lived here from 1455 until 1470, when he was between the ages of
four and 19. For an extra €2 you can climb the twin-towered Porta Soprana.
MUSEUM
Piazza de Ferrari
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PIAZZA
After the asphyxiation of the caruggi this fountain-embellished main piazza ringed by
magnificent buildings feels as if you've just come up for air. Showcase architecture in-
cludes the art nouveau Palazzo della Borsa OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP (now offices), which
was once the country's stock exchange; the hybrid neoclassical-modernist Teatro Carlo
Felice (bombed in WW2 and not fully rebuilt until 1991); and the impressive central foun-
tain.
Museo d'Arte Orientale
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MUSEUM
(Piazzale Mazzini 1; adult/reduced €4/2.80; 9am-1pm Tue-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun) Just east of
Via Garibaldi, a path from Piazza Corvetto twists through terraced gardens to one of
Europe's largest collections of Japanese art, bringing together some 20,000 items, includ-
ing porcelain, bronzes, costumes and musical instruments.
Old City
NEIGHBOURHOOD
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