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side, but best is a sunny drink in the courtyard overlooked by terraced gardens. Impossibly
romantic, it's perfect for a cocktail (€20) and posh snacks.
Rosati
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( 06 322 58 59; Piazza del Popolo 5; 7.30am-11.30pm; Flaminio) Rosati, overlooking
Piazza del Popolo, was once the hang-out of the left-wing chattering classes. Authors Italo
Calvino and Alberto Moravia used to drink here while their right-wing counterparts went
to Canova OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 06 361 22 31; Piazza del Popolo 16; 8am-midnight;
Flaminio), across the square. Today tourists are the main clientele, and the views are as
good as ever.
CAFE
Caffè Greco
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( 06 679 17 00; Via dei Condotti 86; 9am-8pm; Spagna) Casanova, Goethe, Wagner,
Keats, Byron, Shelley and Baudelaire are among the luminaries who have sipped at Caffè
Greco since it opened in 1760. Now there are fewer artists and lovers and more shoppers
and tourists. Prices reflect this, unless you do as the locals do and drink at the bar.
CAFE
TOP OF CHAPTER
6 Monti, Esquiline &
San Lorenzo
Circolo degli Artisti
( 06 7030 5684; www.circoloartisti.it ; Via Casilina Vecchia 42; 7pm-2am Tue-Thu, to 4.30am Fri-
Sun; Ponte Casilino) East of the Pigneto district, Circolo offers one of Rome's best nights
out with top gigs and DJ sets. Friday night cracks open electronica and house for gay
night - Omogenic - and Saturday sees the fun-packed Screamadelica (punk-funk, ska and
new wave), usually also featuring a live band. There's a cool garden bar and admission is
either free or a snip.
CLUB, LIVE MUSIC
Ai Tre Scalini
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WINE BAR
 
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