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directory of Roman staples, and while it's all pretty good, standout choices include pol-
pette di bollito (fried meat balls) and carciofi fritti (fried artichokes).
Osteria dell'Angelo
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TRATTORIA €€
( 06 372 94 70; Via Bettolo 24; set menu €25 ; lunch & dinner Tue-Fri, dinner Mon & Sat; Ot-
taviano-San Pietro) Laid-back and informal, this hugely popular neighbourhood trattoria (re-
servations are a must) is a great place to try genuine local cuisine. The set menu features a
mixed antipasti, a robust Roman-style pasta and a choice of hearty mains with a side dish.
To finish off, you're offered lightly spiced biscuits to dunk in sweet dessert wine.
TRATTORIA €€
Hostaria Dino e Tony
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( 06 3973 3284; Via Leone IV 60; meals €30; Mon-Sat, closed Aug; Ottaviano-San Pietro) So-
mething of a rarity, Dino e Tony is an authentic trattoria in the Vatican area. Kick off with
the monumental antipasto, a minor meal in its own right, before plunging into its signature
dish, rigatoni all'amatriciana . No credit cards.
Dal Toscano
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TUSCAN €€
( 06 3972 5717; www.ristorantedaltoscano.it ; Via Germanico 58-60; meals €45; Tue-Sun; Ot-
taviano-San Pietro) One for the traditionalists, Dal Toscano is an old-fashioned ristorante
that serves top-notch Tuscan meats. Start with the hand-cut prosciutto before attempting
the colossal char-grilled bistecche alla Fiorentina (Florentine-style steak). You'll need to
book.
Pizzeria Amalfi
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PIZZERIA €€
( 06 3973 3165; Via dei Gracchi 12; pizzas from €6, mains from €25; lunch & dinner; Ottavi-
ano-San Pietro) While Roman pizzas are thin and crispy, Neapolitan pizzas are thicker and
more doughy. And that's what you get at this brightly coloured pizzeria-cum-restaurant. If
pizza doesn't appeal, there's a decent range of grilled meats, pastas, salads and fish dishes.
Note that there's a second branch across the road at Via dei Gracchi 5.
Settembrini
CAFE, MODERN ITALIAN €€€
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