Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
(Via del Quirinale 23; 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat, noon-1pm Sun; Via Nazionale)
A masterpiece of baroque architecture (albeit a grubby one), this was Borromini's first
church and bears all the hallmarks of his genius. The elegant curves of the facade, the play
of convex and concave surfaces, and the dome illuminated by hidden windows, all com-
bine to transform a minuscule space into a light, airy interior.
The church, completed in 1641, stands at a road intersection known as the Quattro
Fontane, after the late-16th-century fountains on its four corners, representing Fidelity,
Strength and the rivers Arno and Tiber.
THE TREVI COINS
On an average day around €3000 is thrown into the Trevi Fountain. This is collected daily and given
to the Catholic charity Caritas, but in 2002, scandal erupted when it emerged that an unemployed man
calling himself D'Artagnan had been helping himself for 34 years. He was subsequently banned from
the fountain, but eight years later he was caught on film back at his old tricks.
The ensuing controversy highlighted the fact that the only rule D'Artagnan had been breaking was a
by-law prohibiting entering Rome's fountains. New legislation was subsequently introduced and as of
2012 it's an offence to remove coins from the water.
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Monti, Esquiline &
San Lorenzo
The largest of Rome's seven hills, the Esquiline extends from the Colosseum to Stazione
Termini, encompassing Via Cavour (a busy road between Termini and Via dei Fori Imper-
iali), several impressive museums and churches, and the boho area of Monti, formerly an-
cient Rome's notorious red-light district. Much of the Esquiline was covered with vine-
yards and gardens until the late 19th century, when they were dug up to make way for
grandiose apartment blocks.
Chiesa di Santa
Maria della Vittoria
CHURCH
