Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
end Barolo wine, though actually any good dry red will do). But even if a dish sounds ve-
getarian in theory, before you order you may want to ask about the stock used in that
risotto or polenta, or the ingredients in that suspiciously rich tomato sauce - there may be
beef, ham or ground anchovies involved.
Meat eaters will rejoice in such legendary dishes as pasta
all'amatriciana
(Roman pasta
with a spicy tomato sauce,
pecorino
cheese and
guanciale,
or bacon-like pigs' cheeks),
osso bucco
con risotto alla milanese
(Milanese veal shank and marrow melting into saf-
fron risotto), Tuscan speciality
pappardelle alle cinghiale
(ribbon pasta with wild boar
sauce) and northern favourite
polenta col ragù
(polenta with meat sauce). Near the coasts,
look for seafood variations like
risotto al nero
(risotto cooked with black squid ink),
spa-
ghetti alle vongole
(spaghetti with clam sauce) or
pasta ai frutti di mare
(pasta with sea-
food).
Although some producers find these official Italian classifications unduly costly and creatively
constraining, the DOCG (
Denominazione di origine controllata e garantita
) and DOC (
Denominazione di origine con-
trollata
) designations are awarded to wines that meet regional quality-control standards.
Secondo (Second Course)
Light lunchers usually call it a day after the
primo,
but
buongustai
(foodies) pace them-
selves for meat, fish or
contorni
(side dishes, such as cooked vegetables) in the second
course. These options may range from the outrageous
bistecca alla fiorentina,
a 3in-thick
steak served on the bone in a puddle of juice, to more modest yet equally impressive
fritto
misto di mare
(mixed fried seafood),
carciofi alla romana
(Roman artichokes stuffed with
mint and garlic) or
pollo in tegame con barbe
(chicken casserole with salsify). A less in-
spiring option is
insalata mista
(mixed green salad), typically unadorned greens with vin-
egar and oil on the side - croutons, crumbled cheeses, nuts, dried fruit and other frou-frou
ingredients have no business in a classic Italian salad.
Frutti e dolci
'Siamo arrivati alla frutta'
('We've arrived at the fruit') is an idiom roughly meaning
'we've hit rock bottom' - but hey, not until you've had one last tasty morsel. Your best
bets on the fruit menu are local and seasonal.
Formaggi
(cheeses) are another option, but
only diabetics or the French would go that route when there's room for
dolci
(sweets).
Biscotti
(twice-baked biscuits) made to dip in wine make for a delicious closure to the
