Sicily - Italy - page 1658

From Trapani's station on Piazza Umberto I, there are rail links to Palermo (€8, 2¼ to 3½
hours, three to four direct trains daily) and Marsala (€3.45, 30 minutes, 10 Monday to
Saturday, four on Sunday).
WORTH A TRIP
SICILY'S OLDEST NATURE RESERVE
Saved from development and road projects by local protests, the tranquil Riserva Naturale dello
Zingaro ( 092 43 51 08; www.riservazingaro.it ; adult €3, child 8-14yr €2, under 8yr or over 65yr
free; 7am-7.30pm Apr-Sep, 8am-4pm Oct-Mar) is the star attraction on the Golfo di Castellam-
mare, halfway between Palermo and Trapani. Founded in 1981, this was Sicily's first nature reserve.
Zingaro's wild coastline is a haven for the rare Bonelli's eagle along with 40 other species of bird.
Mediterranean flora dusts the hillsides with wild carob and bright yellow euphorbia, and hidden coves,
such as Capreria and Marinella Bays, provide tranquil swimming spots. The main entrance to the park
is 2km north of the village of Scopello. Several walking trails are detailed on maps available free at
the entrance or downloadable from the park website. The main 7km trail along the coast passes by the
visitor centre and five museums documenting everything from local flora and fauna to traditional fish-
ing methods.
Once home to tuna fishers, Scopello now mainly hosts tourists, although outside of peak summer
season it retains some of its sleepy village atmosphere. Its port, 1km below town, has a picturesque
beach backed by a rust-red tonnara (tuna-processing plant) and dramatic faraglioni (rock towers)
rising from the water.
Pensione Tranchina ( 092 454 10 99; www.pensionetranchina.com ; Via Diaz 7; B&B per
person €36-46, half-board per person €55-72; ) is the nicest of several places to stay and eat
clustered around the cobblestoned courtyard at Scopello's village centre. Friendly hosts Marisin and
Salvatore offer comfortable rooms, a roaring fire on chilly evenings and delicious home-cooked meals
featuring local fish and home-grown fruit and olive oil.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Erice
POP 28,800 / ELEV 751M
One of Italy's most spectacular hill towns, Erice combines medieval charm with astound-
ing 360-degree views. Erice sits on the legendary Mt Eryx (750m); on a clear day, you can
see Cape Bon in Tunisia. Wander the medieval tangle of streets interspersed by churches,
forts and tiny cobbled piazzas. The town has a seductive history as a centre for the cult of
Venus. Settled by the mysterious Elymians, Erice was an obvious abode for the goddess of
love, and the town followed the peculiar ritual of sacred prostitution, with the prostitutes