Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
preserve whose trails, wetlands and beaches are prime territory for walking, birdwatching and swim-
ming. Next, head 23km southwest along the SP56, SP11 and SS115 to
Ispica
, a hilltop town
overlooking a huge canyon, the Cava d'Ispica, riddled with prehistoric tombs. Continuing up the
SS115 for a further 18km brings you to
Modica
, a bustling town set in a deep rocky gorge.
There's excellent accommodation here and a wealth of great restaurants, so this makes a good place to
overnight. The best of the baroque sights are up in Modica Alta, the high part of town, but make sure
you have energy left for the
passeggiata
(evening stroll) on Corso Umberto I and dinner at Osteria dei
Sapori Perduti.
Next morning, a short, winding, up-and-down drive through rock-littered hilltops leads to
Ragusa
, one of Sicily's nine provincial capitals. The town is divided in two − it's Ragusa Ibla that
you want, a claustrophobic warren of grey stone houses and elegant
palazzi
that opens up onto Piazza
Duomo, a superb example of 18th-century town planning. Although you can eat well in Ragusa, con-
sider lunching in
Chiaramonte Gulfi
, a tranquil hilltop town some 20km to the north along the
SP10, famous for its olive oil and delicious pork.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Syracuse
POP 124,000
A dense tapestry of overlapping cultures and civilisations, Syracuse is one of Sicily's most
appealing cities. Settled by colonists from Corinth in 734 BC, this was considered to be
the most beautiful city of the ancient world, rivalling Athens in power and prestige. Under
the demagogue Dionysius the Elder, the city reached its zenith, attracting luminaries such
as Livy, Plato, Aeschylus and Archimedes, and cultivating the sophisticated urban culture
that was to see the birth of comic Greek theatre.
As the sun set on Ancient Greece, Syracuse became a Roman colony and was looted of
its treasures. While modern-day Syracuse lacks the drama of Palermo and the energy of
Catania, the ancient island neighbourhood of Ortygia continues to seduce visitors with its
atmospheric squares, narrow alleyways and lovely waterfront, while the Parco Archaeolo-
gico della Neapolis, 2km across town, remains one of Sicily's great classical treasures.
