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among the comfortable, high-ceilinged rooms, junior suite 105 stands out, decorated with
artwork loaned by Palermo's modern art museum.
Quintocanto Hotel & Spa
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HOTEL €€
( 091 58 49 13; www.quintocantohotel.com ; Corso Vittoria Emanuele 310; s €125-135, d €145-195, ste
€254; ) Housed in a modernised 16th-century palazzo , Quintocanto woos visitors
with its prime central city location and a wellness centre where guests enjoy free access to
the sauna, Turkish bath and whirlpool tub (additional spa services including massages cost
extra). Book ahead for rooms 319 and 420, which have terraces with superb views of San
Giuseppe Teatini church next door.
Grand Hotel Piazza Borsa
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HOTEL €€
( 091 32 00 75; www.piazzaborsa.com ; Via dei Cartari 18; s €119-189, d €160-208, ste €350-790;
) Opened in 2010 in Palermo's former stock exchange, this grand four-star en-
compasses three separate buildings housing 127 rooms. Nicest are the high-ceilinged
suites with jaccuzi tubs and windows facing Piazza San Francesco.
Eating
Sicily's ancient cuisine is a mixture of spicy and sweet flavours, epitomised in the ubiquit-
ous eggplant-based caponata and the Palermitan classic bucatini con le sarde (hollow
tube-shaped noodles with sardines, wild fennel, raisins, pine nuts and breadcrumbs).
Cakes, marzipan confections and pastries are all works of art - try the cannoli (tubes of
pastry filled with sweetened ricotta).
Restaurants rarely start to fill up until 9.30pm. For cheap eats, visit Palermo's markets,
wander the tangle of alleys east and south of Teatro Massimo, or spend a Saturday even-
ing snacking with locals at the street food carts in Piazza Caracciolo in the Vucciria dis-
trict.
Many places close on Sunday, especially in the evening.
TRATTORIA
Ferro di Cavallo
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