Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Parco Nazionale dell'Aspromonte
Most Italians think of the Parco Nazionale dell'Aspromonte ( www.parcoaspromonte.gov.it ) as a
hiding place used by Calabrian kidnappers in the 1970s and '80s. It's still rumoured to
contain 'ndrangheta strongholds, but as a tourist you're unlikely to encounter any murky
business. The national park, Calabria's second largest, is startlingly dramatic, rising
sharply inland from Reggio. Its highest peak, Montalto (1955m), is dominated by a huge
bronze statue of Christ and offers sweeping views across to Sicily.
Subject to frequent mudslides and carved up by torrential rivers, the mountains are non-
etheless awesomely beautiful. Underwater rivers keep the peaks covered in coniferous
forests and ablaze with flowers in spring. It's wonderful walking country and the park has
several colour-coded trails.
Extremes of weather and geography have resulted in some extraordinary villages, such
as Pentidàttilo and Roghudi , clinging limpetlike to the craggy, rearing rocks and now all but
deserted. It's worth the drive to explore these eagle-nest villages. Another mountain eyrie
with a photogenic ruined castle is Bova , perched at 900m above sea level. The drive up
the steep, dizzying road to Bova is not for the faint-hearted, but the views are stupendous.
Maps are scarce. Try the national park office ( 0965 74 30 60; www.parcoaspromonte.gov.it ;
Via Aurora; 9am-1pm Mon-Fri, 3-5pm Tue & Thu) in Gambarie , the Aspromonte's main town
and the easiest approach to the park. The roads are good and many activities are organised
from here - you can ski and it's also the place to hire a 4WD; ask around in the town.
It's also possible to approach from the south, but the roads aren't as good. The co-oper-
ative Naturaliter ( 347 3046799; www.naturaliterweb.it ) , based in Condofuri, is an excellent
source of information, and can help arrange walking and donkey treks and place you in
B&Bs throughout the region. Co-operativa San Leo ( 347 3046799) based in Bova, also
provides guided tours and accommodation. In Reggio di Calabria, you can book treks and
tours with Misafumera (
0965 67 70 21; www.misafumera.it ; Via Nazionale 306d; week-long treks
€260-480) .
Stay on a bergamot farm at Azienda Agrituristica Il Bergamotto ( 347 6012338; Via Amend-
olea; per person €25) where Ugo Sergi can also arrange excursions. Hiking trails pass nearby
so it's a good hiking base. The rooms are simple but it's in a lovely rural location, the
views are wonderful and the food is delicious.
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