Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
In the new town, pedestrianised Corso Mazzini provides a pleasant respite from the chaot-
ic traffic and incessant car honking. There are a number of sculptures lining the
corso,
in-
cluding
Saint George and the Dragon
by Salvador Dalí.
In the old town, head up the winding, charmingly dilapidated Corso Telesio, which has
a raw Neapolitan feel to it and is lined with ancient hung-with-washing tenements, anti-
quated shopfronts plus an instrument maker's and antiquated shoe mender's. The side al-
leys are a study in urban decay. At the top, the 12th-century
cathedral
(Piazza del Duomo;
8am-noon & 3-7.30pm)
was rebuilt in restrained baroque style in the 18th century. In a chapel
off the north aisle is a copy of an exquisite 13th-century Byzantine Madonna.
From the cathedral, you can walk up Via del Seggio through a little medieval quarter
before turning right to reach the 13th-century
Convento di San Francesco d'Assisi
(off Via del
Seggio)
. Otherwise head along the
corso
to Piazza XV Marzo, an appealing square fronted
by the Palazzo del Governo and the handsome neoclassical
Teatro Rendano
(Piazza XV Mar-
zo)
.
From Piazza XV Marzo, follow Via Paradiso, then Via Antonio Siniscalchi for the route
to the down-at-heel Norman
castle
(Piazza Frederico II)
, left in disarray by several earth-
quakes. It's closed for restoration, but the view merits the steep ascent.
Sleeping
B&B Via dell'Astrologo
( 338 9205394;
www.viadellastrologo.com
;
Via Rutilio Benincasa 16; s €35-40, d €55-80, extra bed
€20; )
A gem in the historic centre, this small B&B is tastefully decorated with polished
wooden floors, white bedspreads, and good-quality artwork. Brothers Mario and Marco
are a mine of information on Cosenza and Calabria in general.
B&B
$
Ostello Re Alarico
(
HOSTEL
$
0984 79 25 70;
www.ostellorealarico.com
;
Vico II Giuseppe Marini Serra 10; dm/s/d €16/30/50;
)
On the opposite side of the river from the
duomo
, this restored palazzo housing doubles
and dorms is something of a challenge to find. But the decor is an appealing combination
of old (check out the ancient oven) and new. There's a pretty garden, and the young owner
is a great enthusiast for the region.
HOTEL
$$
Royal Hotel
