Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
MASSERIAS: LUXURY ON THE FARM
Masserias
are unique to southern Italy. Modelled on the classical Roman villa, these fortified farm-
houses - equipped with oil mills, cellars, chapels, storehouses and accommodation for workers and
livestock - were built to function as self-sufficient communities. These days, they still produce the
bulk of Italy's olive oil, but many have been converted into luxurious hotels,
agriturismi
(farm stay
accommodation), holiday apartments or restaurants. Staying in a
masseria
is a unique experience, es-
pecially when you can dine on home-grown produce.
The following masserias are recommended:
Il Frantoio
( 0831 33 02 76;
www.trecolline.it
; SS16, Km 874; d €140-260, apt €320-350;
) Stay in a charming, whitewashed farmhouse, where the owners still live and work, producing
high-quality organic olive oil. (Or else book yourself in for one of the marathon eight-course lunches;
the food is superb.) Armando takes guests for a tour of the farm each evening in his 1949 Fiat. Il
Frantoio lies 5km outside Ostuni along the SS16 in the direction of Fasano. You'll see the sign on
your left-hand side when you reach the Km 874 sign.
Masseria Torre Coccaro
( 080 482 93 10;
www.masseriatorrecoccaro.com
; Contrada Coccaro 8;
d €284-1365; ) For pure luxury, stay in this superchic yet countrified
masseria
. There's
a glorious spa set in a cave, a beach-style swimming pool, cooking courses on offer and a restaurant
(meals €90) dishing up home-grown produce.
Masseria Maizza
(
www.masseriatorremaizza.com
; d €290-548, ste €422-1522; ) This
farmhouse is located next door to Masseria Torre Coccaro and run by the same people, so you know
luxury is assured. The two
masserias
share a balmy beach club (about 4km away) and a neighbouring
golf course.
Borgo San Marco
( 080 439 57 57;
www.borgosanmarco.it
; Contrada Sant'Angelo 33; s
€130-140, d €160-230; ) Once a
borgo
(medieval town), this
masseria
has 16 rooms, a
spa in the orchard and is traditional with a bohemian edge. Nearby are some frescoed rock churches.
It's 8km from Ostuni; to get here take the SS379 in the direction of Bari, exiting at the sign that says
SC San Marco-Zona Industriale Sud Fasano, then follow the signs. Note that there's a one-week min-
imum stay in August.
Alberobello
POP 11,000
Unesco World Heritage Site Alberobello resembles an urban sprawl - for gnomes. The
Zona dei Trulli on the western hill of town is a dense mass of 1500 beehive-shaped
houses, white-tipped as if dusted by snow. These dry-stone buildings are made from local
limestone; none are older than the 14th century. Inhabitants do not wear pointy hats, but
they do sell anything a visitor might want, from miniature
trulli
to woollen shawls.
