Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The castle has eight octagonal towers. Its interconnecting rooms have decorative
marble columns and fireplaces, and the doorways and windows are framed in corallite
stone. Many of the towers have washing rooms with what are thought to be Europe's first
flush loos - Frederick II, like the Arab world he admired, set great store by cleanliness.
It's difficult to reach here by public transport. By car, it's about 35km from Trani.
Polignano a Mare
Dip into this spectacularly positioned small town if you can. Located around 34km south
of Bari on the S16 coastal road, Polignano a Mare is built on the edge of a craggy ravine
pockmarked with caves. The town is thought to be one of the most important ancient set-
tlements in Puglia and was later inhabited by successive invaders ranging from the Huns
to the Normans.
Sights & Activities
On Sunday the
logge
(balconies) are crowded with day trippers from Bari who come here
to view the crashing waves, visit the caves and crowd out the
cornetterias
(shops special-
ising in Italian croissants) in the atmospheric
centro storico
. There are several baroque
churches, an imposing Norman monastery and the medieval
Porta Grande
, which was the
only access to the historic centre until the 18th century. You can still see the holes that ac-
tivated the heavy drawbridge and the openings from where boiling oil was poured onto
any unwelcome visitors to town.
Several operators organise boat trips to the grottoes, including
Dorino
(
329 6465 904)
,
costing around €20 per person.
Sleeping & Eating
B&B Santo Stefano
(
www.santostefano.info
; Vico Santo Stefano 9-13; d €69-99; )
Six attractive rooms located in an
ancient tower in the old part of Polignano, complete with tufa walls, antique furniture and
bright bathrooms.
B&B
$
PUGLIAN
$$
Antiche Mura
