Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
curio is home to a famous depiction of Priapus whose oversized phallus balances on a pair
of scales…much to the anxiety of many a male observer.
VILLA DEI MISTERI
From the Casa del Fauna, follow the road west and turn right into Via Consolare, which
Villa di Diomede
and you'll come to the 90-room
Villa dei Misteri,
one of the most complete
structures left standing in Pompeii. The Dionysiac frieze, the most important fresco still
on site, spans the walls of the large dining room. One of the largest paintings from the an-
cient world, it depicts the initiation of a bride-to-be into the cult of Dionysus, the Greek
god of wine. A farm for much of its life, the villa's own vino-making area is still visible at
the northern end.
Sleeping & Eating
There's really no need to stay overnight in Pompeii. The ruins are best visited on a day
trip from Naples, Sorrento or Salerno, and once the excavations close for the day, the area
around the site becomes decidedly seedy. Most of the restaurants near the ruins are char-
acterless affairs set up for feeding busloads of tourists. Wander down to the modern town
and it's a little better, with a few decent restaurants serving excellent local food.
curio)
peddles the standard choice of
panini
, pizza slices, salads, hot meals and gelato.
You'll find it near the Tempio di Giove.
President
( 081 850 72 45;
www.ristorantepresident.it
;
Piazza Schettini 12; meals €35; 11.40am-3.30pm &
7pm-midnight Tue-Sun, closed Jan; FS to Pompei, Circumvesuviana to Pompei Scavi-Villa dei Mis-
teri)
With its dripping chandeliers and gracious service, the President feels like a private
dining room in an Audrey Hepburn film. Conducting the charm is owner Paolo
Gramaglia, whose passion for local produce sparkles in creations like aubergine
mille-
foglie
(flaky puff pastry) with Cetara anchovies, mozzarella
filante
(melted mozzarella)
and grated
tarallo
(savoury almond biscuit). Treat yourself with a degustation menu (€30
to €50).
CAMPANIAN
€€
Information
