Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
From Stazione Centrale, fixed-fare routes include Mergellina (€13.50), seafront hotels
(€11.50) and Molo Beverello (€10.50).
See the taxi company websites for a comprehensive list of fares.
WORTH A TRIP
PALAZZO REALE DI CASERTA
The one compelling reason to stop at the otherwise nondescript town of Caserta, 30km north of
Naples, is to gasp at its colossal, World Heritage-listed
Palazzo Reale
( 0823 44 80 84;
www.reggiadicaserta.beniculturali.it;
Viale Douhet 22; adult/reduced €12/6; palace 8.30am-7pm
Wed-Mon, park 8.30am-2hr before sunset Mon-Wed, Giardino Inglese 8.30am-3hr before sunset
Mon-Wed) . With film credits including
Mission Impossible III
and the interior shots of Queen Amid-
ala's royal residence in
Star Wars: Episode 1 - The Phantom Menace
and
Star Wars: Episode 2 - At-
tack of the Clones
, this former royal pad is one of the greatest - and last - achievements of Italian
baroque architecture.
Known to Italians as the Reggia di Caserta, the
palazzo
(mansions) began life in 1752 after King
Charles VII of Bourbon ordered a palace to rival Versailles. Neapolitan Luigi Vanvitelli was commis-
sioned for the job and built a palace bigger than its French rival. With its 1200 rooms, 1790 windows,
34 staircases and a 250m-long facade, it was reputedly the largest building in 18th-century Europe.
Vanvitelli's immense staircase leads up to the royal apartments, richly decorated with tapestries,
furniture, crystal and art. The recently restored back rooms of the Throne Room house an extraordin-
ary collection of historic wooden models of the palace, along with architectural drawings and early
sketches of the building by Luigi Vanvitelli and his son, Carlo.
The apartments are also home to the Mostra Terrea Motus, an underrated collection of international
modern art commissioned after the region's devastating earthquake in 1980.
To clear your head afterwards, explore the elegant landscaped park, which stretches for some 3km
to a waterfall and fountain of Diana. Within the park is the famous Giardino Inglese (English Garden),
a romantic oasis of intricate pathways, exotic flora, pools and cascades. Bicycle hire (€4) is available
on the grounds.
If you're feeling peckish, ditch the uninspiring on-site cafeteria for contemporary cafe
Martucci
(
0823 32 08 03; Via Roma 9, Caserta; pastries from €0.80, salads from €4; 5am-10.30pm) ,
located 250m east of the palace. The counters here heave with freshly made
panini
(sandwiches),
salads, vegetable dishes, baked savouries, pastries and substantial cooked-to-order meals.
Regular trains connect Naples to Caserta (€3.50, 35 to 50 minutes) from Monday to Saturday. Ser-
vices are reduced and inconvenient on Sunday. Caserta train station is located opposite the palace
grounds. If you're driving, follow signs for the Reggia.
