Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
CAMPI FLEGREI
Stretching west of Posillipo Hill to the Tyrrhenian Sea, the Campi Flegrei (Phlegraean - or 'Fiery' -
Fields) is home to some of Campania's most remarkable - and overlooked - Graeco-Roman ruins.
Gateway to the area is the port town of Pozzuoli. Established by the Greeks around 530 BC, its most
famous resident is the
Anfiteatro Flavio
( 081 526 60 07; Via Terracciano 75; admission €4, incl
entry to Parco Archeologico di Baia, Museo Archeologico dei Campi Flegrei & Scavi Archeologici di
Cuma; varies, usually every hour from 9am-1pm Wed-Mon) , Italy's third-largest ancient Roman
amphitheatre.
A further 6km west, Baia was once a glamorous Roman holiday resort frequented by sun-seeking
emperors. Fragments of this opulence linger among the 1st-century ruins of the
Parco Archeologico
di Baia
( 081 868 75 92; Via Sella di Baia; Sat & Sun adult/reduced €4/2, incl entry to Anfiteatro
Flavio, Museo Archeologico dei Campi Flegrei & Scavi Archeologici di Cuma, Tue-Fri free;
9am-1hr before sunset Tue-Sun; EAV BUS to Baia or Cumana to Fusaro, then walk 900m) ,
its mosaics, stuccoed
balneum
(bathroom) and imposing Tempio di Mercurio once part of a sprawling
palace and spa complex. While the ruins are free on weekdays, weekend visitors need to purchase
their tickets at the equally fascinating
Museo Archeologico dei Campi Flegrei
(Archaeological Mu-
seum of the Campi Flegrei; 081 523 37 97;
ht-
tp://museoarcheologicocampiflegrei.campaniabeniculturali.it
;
Via Castello 39; Sat & Sun €4, admis-
sion incl entry to Anfiteatro Flavio, Parco Archeoligico di Baia & Scavi Archeologici di Cuma, Tue-
Fri free;
varies, usually 9am-2.30pm Tue-Sun, last entry 1pm;
EAV BUS to Baia) , a further
2km south along the coast.
Yet another 2km south, in the sleepy town of Bacoli, lurks the magical
Piscina Mirabilis
(Marvel-
lous Pool; 333 6853278; Via Piscina Mirabilis; donation appreciated; varies; EAV BUS to
Bacoli then Cumana to Fusaro) , the world's largest Roman cistern. You'll need to call the custodi-
an to access the site, but it's well worth the effort. Bathed in an eerie light and featuring 48 soaring pil-
lars and a barrel-vaulted ceiling, the so-called 'Marvellous Pool' is more 'subterranean cathedral' than
'giant water tank'. While entrance is free, show your manners by offering the custodian a €2 or €3 tip.
Both the Ferrovia Cumana and the Naples metro (line 2) serve Pozzuoli, and the town is also con-
nected to Ischia and Procida by frequent car and passenger ferries. To reach Baia, take the Ferrovia
Cumana train to Fusaro station, walk 150m north, turning right into Via Carlo Vanvitelli (which even-
tually becomes Via Bellavista). The ruins are 750m to the east. To reach Bacoli, catch a Bacoli-bound
EAV Bus from Fusaro.
Unfortunately, the Campi Flegrei's second-rate infrastructure and unreliable public transport, plus
the fickle opening times of its sites make pretrip planning a good idea. Contact the
tourist office
(
081 526 66 39;
www.infocampiflegrei.it
; Largo Matteotti 1a; 9am-3pm Mon-Fri; Pozzuoli,
Cumana to Pozzuoli) in Pozzuoli for updated information on the area's sights and opening times,
or consider exploring the area with popular local tour outfit Yellow Sudmarine (
Click here
).
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