Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
1
Centro Storico
The three east-west
decumani
(main streets) of Naples' World Heritage-listed
centro
storico
follow the original street plan of ancient Neapolis. Most of the major sights are
grouped around the busiest two of these classical thoroughfares: 'Spaccanapoli' (consist-
ing of Via Benedetto Croce, Via San Biagio dei Librai and Via Vicaria Vecchia) and Via
dei Tribunali. North of Via dei Tribunali, Via della Sapienza, Via Anticaglia and Via San-
tissimi Apostoli make up the quieter third
decumanus
.
BEFORE YOU EXPLORE
If you're planning to blitz the sights, the
Campania artecard
( 800 600601, 0639 96 76 50;
www.campaniaartecard.it
)
is an excellent investment. A cumulative ticket that covers museum admis-
sion and transport, it comes in various forms. The Naples and Campi Flegrei three-day ticket (adult/re-
duced 18-25 yrs €16/10) gives free admission to three participating sites, a 50% discount on others
and free transport in Naples and the Campi Flegrei. Other options range from €12 to €30 and cover
sites as far afield as Pompeii and Paestum. The tickets can be bought at the Stazione Centrale (Central
Station) tourist office, participating museums and archaeological sites, online, or through the call
centre.
Cappella Sansevero
CHAPEL
( 081 551 84 70;
www.museosansevero.it
; Via Francesco de Sanctis 19; adult/reduced €7/5;
10am-5.40pm Mon & Wed-Sat, to 1.10pm Sun; Dante)
It's in this Masonic-inspired chapel that
you'll find Giuseppe Sanmartino's incredible sculpture,
Cristo velato
(Veiled Christ), its
marble veil so realistic that it's tempting to try to lift it and view Christ underneath. It's
one of several artistic wonders, which also include Francesco Queirolo's sculpture
Disinganno
(Disillusion), Antonio Corradini's
Pudicizia
(Modesty) and riotously colour-
ful frescoes by Francesco Maria Russo, the latter untouched since their creation in 1749.
Downstairs, two meticulously preserved human arterial systems are a testament to the
insatiable curiosity and geniality of alchemist Prince Raimondo di Sangro (1710-71), the
man who commissioned the chapel's 18th-century makeover. According to Italian philo-
sopher Benedetto Croce (1866-1952), di Sangro held a Faustian fascination for the
centro
storico
's masses, who accused him of everything from replicating the miracle of San
Gennaro's blood to making furniture with the skin and bones of seven cardinals.
