Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Speleologists (cave specialists) estimate that about 60% of Neapolitans live and work
above this network, known in Italian as the
sottosuolo
(underground). Since the end of
WWII, some 700 cavities have been discovered, from original Greek-era grottoes to
palaeo-Christian burial chambers and royal Bourbon escape routes. According to the ex-
perts, this is simply a prelude, with another 2 million sq metres of troglodytic treats to un-
furl.
Naples' dedicated caving geeks are quick to tell you that their underworld is one of the
largest and oldest on earth. Sure, Paris might claim a catacomb or two, but its subter-
ranean offerings don't come close to this giant's 2500-year history.
And what a history it is. Naples' most famous saint, San Gennaro, was interred in the
Catacomba di San Gennaro in the 5th century. A century later, in 536, Belisario and his
troops caught Naples by surprise by storming the city through the city's ancient tunnels.
According to legend, Alfonso of Aragon used the same trick in 1442, undermining the
city walls by using an underground passageway leading into a tailor's shop and straight
into town. Even the city's dreaded Camorra has got in on the act. In 1992 the notorious
Stolder clan was busted for running a subterranean drug lab, with escape routes heading
straight to the clan boss' pad.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Don't Miss
Naples' Cappella Sansevero (
Click here
)
is home to the astounding
Cristo velato
(Veiled
Christ), its marble veil so translucent it baffles to this day.
HOLD THE PRAWNS
Order a pizza marinara in Naples and you'll get a simple affair of tomato, garlic and olive oil. And the
seafood? There is none. The pizza was named after fishers, who took it out to sea for lunch.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Best Places to Say 'Ti Amo'
ยป
Villa Cimbrone ( 4)