Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
L'AQUILA: AFTER THE SHOCK WAVE
Destruction from the devastating 6.3 magnitude earthquake that struck northern Abruzzo in 2009 was
severe: 309 people died in the regional capital L'Aquila; the city centre, famed for its university, eleg-
ant squares and historic
palazzi
(mansions), was partially destroyed; and 65,000 residents were evacu-
ated to camps on the edge of the city. In one of his all-time crass gaffes, then prime minister Silvio
Berlusconi instructed residents to enjoy their 'camping weekend'.
Controversy continued in 2012 when six scientists and an official were convicted of multiple counts
of manslaughter for failing to warn residents of the quake risk. And in 2013 three builders and a tech-
nician were also found guilty of manslaughter charges for neglecting to properly maintain a student
residence in which eight people died.
Several years on from the quake, L'Aquila's
centro storico
(historic centre) resembles a giant con-
struction site. Nearly two-thirds of the displaced residents have returned to their homes, and the rest
are housed in temporary antiseismic residences on the edge of town. Efforts are focusing on restoring
historic buildings, and an attempt to imbue the centre with new life by opening bars and restaurants.
But, with Italy in deep recession, progress in L'Aquila is frustratingly slow for the inhabitants, and
there is little to draw in casual visitors.
Abruzzo and neighbouring Molise are particularly vulnerable to earthquakes as they sit on a major
fault line that follows the Apennines from Sicily up to Genoa.
Eating & Drinking
Hosteria dell'Arco
( 0864 21 05 53; Via M D'Eramo 20; meals €20-25; closed Mon evening & Sun)
Superb food,
lovely, rustic surroundings, laid-back atmosphere and friendly service. First up is the fab-
ulous antipasto buffet, prepared from scratch every night, follow this with, say, delicious
grilled lamb and scrumptious homemade desserts.
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN
€
Ristorante
Clemente
( 0864 21 06 79; Vico Quercia 5; meals €25; Fri-Wed)
Photos of family members on the
wall remind you that this is a proud, family-run restaurant. The menu is based on the
cornerstones of Abruzzese cooking, using seasonal products to produce delicious meals.
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN
€€
La Cantina di Biffi
( 0864 3 20 25;
www.cantinadibiffi.it
; Via Barbato 1; meals €25; closed Sun evening & Mon)
Just
off Corso Ovidio, this is a charming and atmospheric bistro-wine bar. Exposed-stone walls
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN
€€
