Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Norcia & the Valnerina
After the thigh-challenging hill towns of western and northern Umbria, the flatter, less el-
evated prospects of Norcia can come as a relief. You'll still need to do something to work
up an appetite, however. The merest mention of Norcia sends Italian gastronomes into
raptures about the earthy delights of its
tartufo nero
(black truffle) and the prized
salumi
from its acorn-fed pigs, both of which feature prolifically on restaurant menus and in shop
windows.
Crisp mountain air, picture-book medieval looks and the town's spiritual claim to fame
as the birthplace of St Benedict are other reasons for lingering here. Norcia's other great
Almost as scenic is Norcia's own valley, the steep-sided Valnerina valley, brushed with
wildflowers in summer, which is best explored on a meandering drive along the SS209.
Sights
Often devastated by earthquakes - the last major rumble was in 1979 - Norcia's petite,
walled centre is a joy to explore on foot. Its medieval buildings have been seriously
patched up over the years, but the town has preserved its charm. On the centrepiece
Piazza
San Benedetto
, a statue of Norcia's famous son,
St Benedict
, with hand outstretched in
blessing, stands proud. The saint and his twin sister, St Scholastica, were born here to a
well-to-do family in 480 AD, apparently in the Roman crypt of the 13th-century
Basilica di
San Benedetto
(Piazza San Benedetto; 9am-6pm)
. The church's pale, delicate facade gives
way to a calm, contemplative interior, where monks often shuffle past bearing prayer
books or on their way to Gregorian chant at 7.45pm. Filippo Napoletano's early 17th-cen-
tury frescoes depict scenes from the life of the saint.
Next to the church is the 14th-century
Palazzo Comunale
, with a striking portico and bel-
fry, while opposite lies the
Castellina
, a 16th-century papal fortress.
Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Grotta Azzura
( 074 381 65 13;
www.hotelgrottaazzurra.com
;
Via Alfieri 12; s €76-115, d €113-135; )
This 18th-
century
palazzo
with suits of armour in the reception offers fabulous deals during the
week and in winter. Cross-vaulted rooms are stately if a bit dark, complete with carved
HOTEL
€€
