Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Next to the
duomo,
the Palazzo del Podestà houses Massa's musty
Museo Archeologico
(Piazza Garibaldi 1; adult/child €3/2; 10am-12.30pm & 3.30-7pm Tue-Sun summer, 10am-12.30pm &
3-5pm Tue-Sun winter)
, whose only truly noteworthy exhibit is
La Stele del Vado
all'Arancio,
a simple but compelling stone stela (funeral or commemorative marker) dat-
ing from the 3rd millennium BC.
Downhill from Piazza Garibaldi, opposite the main car park, is a 13th-century building
that was once used to store wheat. Under its loggia is a disused public drinking fountain
topped by an extraordinary fresco of the
Albero della Fecondità
(Fertility Tree). Look
closely to see what type of fruit the tree bears!
A cumulative ticket (adult/reduced €15/10) gives access to all of Massa's museums.
Sleeping
Residenza d'Epoca
Palazzo Malfatti
( 05 6690 4181;
www.palazzomalfattiresidenzadepoca.com
; Via Moncini 10; d €60-115, tr €90-165, q
€120-230, 5-bed €150-290; )
These seven apartments in an 13th-century
palazzo
overlook-
ing Piazza Garibaldi are an attractive option for self-catering guests wanting to stay for a
while (rates drop for stays of more than two nights). The building's conversion hasn't
been handled as cleverly as it could have been, but the strangely arranged spaces are com-
fortable and reasonably well equipped, with good bathrooms.
APARTMENT
€
Eating & Drinking
La Tana del Brillo Parlante
( 05 6690 1274; Vicolo del Ciambellano 4; meals €32; noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm Thu-Tue Dec-
Oct)
Satisfying the Slow Food checklist to the letter, this self-described 'smallest
osteria
in
Italy' seats a mere 10 people (in summer another six can squeeze into tiny alley tables)
and serves deliciously authentic Maremmese dishes. If you intend to dine here in summer
or on the weekend, reserve well in advance. No credit cards.
TUSCAN
€€
TUSCAN
€€
L'Osteria da Tronca
( 05 6690 1991; Vicolo Porte 5; meals €28; 7.30-10.30pm Thu-Tue Mar-Jul & Sep-mid-Dec,
7.30-10pm Aug)
Squeezed into a side street (it's behind Hotel Il Sole), this stone-walled res-
