Travel Reference
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yards tumbling towards the sea, olive groves, palm trees and 10 apartments to rent - some
on the beach in former peasant-worker cottages. The self-contained accommodation (min-
imum two nights September to July, five nights in August) has a simple charm; guests can
buy olive oil and wine at reception; and, should you not fancy cooking, harbourside Hotel
e Ristorante Mare is a wonderful two-minute stroll away along the pebbly seashore in the
tiny harbour of Magazzini. The estate also organises wine tasting in its cellar.
Marciana
POP 2190
From Portoferraio cruise 20km west along the coast to Marciana Marina, from where it's
another 9km inland to the island's highest (375m) and oldest village. Park at the entrance
to Marciana and follow Via delle Fonti and its continuation, Via delle Coste, out of the
village to the
Santuario della Madonna del Monte
(627m) - a 40-minute uphill hike through
scented parasol pine and chestnut forest. Fourteen Stations of the Cross pave the old mule
track up to the pilgrimage site, and the coastal panorama that unfolds as you get higher is
remarkable. Play I Spy Corsica.
Back down in Marciana village, lunch à la Slow Food at
Osteria del Noce
( 05 6590
1285; Via della Madonna 27; meals €25; lunch & dinner)
, a simple family-run place that cooks
up a mean spaghetti laced with Granseolo Elbano (a large crab typical to Elba). End your
typical Elban feast with a wander around the village, past arches, flowerboxes and petite
balconies to drop-offs revealing views of Marciana Marina and neighbouring
Poggio
be-
low.
Monte Capanne
If you only have time for just one road trip from Portoferraio, it has to be this. Some 750m
south of Marciana on the road to Poggio, the
Cabinovia Monte Capanne
(Cableway; 05 6590
1020; single/return €12/18; 10am-1pm & 2.20-5pm summer)
whisks walkers in open, barred
cabins - akin to canary-yellow parrot cages - up the mountain to the summit of Elba's
highest point, Monte Capanne (1019m). Alight 20 minutes later and hike a little further
around the peak to savour an astonishing 360-degree panorama of the entire island, sur-
rounding Tuscan archipelago, Etruscan Coast and Corsica.
