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rooms and glistening sea views, is belle époque Livorno relived. Dip into the rooftop in-
finity pool and, afterwards, gorge poolside on a sunset aperitif and panoramic sea view.
It's 3km south of the city centre.
Eating
Sampling traditional cacciucco, a remarkable mixed seafood stew, is reason enough to
visit Livorno.
Mercato Centrale
(Via Buontalenti; 6am-2pm Mon-Sat) Livorno's magnificent late-19th-century neoclassical
food market miraculously survived Allied WWII bombing. Arresting both gastronomic-
ally and architecturally, the market is a gargantuan maze of tasty food stalls bursting with
local produce, including the most astonishing fish and seafood.
MARKET
Surfer Joe's Diner
( 05 8680 9211; www.surferjoe.it/diner ; Terrazza Mascagni; meals €15-30; noon-1am Tue-Sun)
What a burst of dynamism this zesty surf bar on the seafront adds to Livorno's drinking
'n' dining scene! Burgers, onion rings, pancakes and smoothies are on the menu, the
'look' is 1950s diner and surf music dominates the soundtrack. A huge terrace licked by
the sea breeze and shaded by bamboo huts is the icing on the cake. Families flock here
during the day but after dark, a younger crowd arrives for DJ and jam sessions, concerts
and various other happenings.
AMERICAN
Cantina Nardi
( 05 8680 8006; Via Cambini 6-8; meals €20; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) In business since 1965,
the Nardis know a thing or three about cooking up hearty, wholly affordable Tuscan fare
in the company of friendly knowledgeable staff and fabulous wine. As much enoteca
(wine bar) as Slow Food-hailed restaurant, the bistro organises wine tastings and pre-din-
ner aperitivi. Dine between bottled-filled shelves inside, on the patio or on the street ter-
race.
TUSCAN
L'Ancora
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP
SEAFOOD €€
( 05 8688 1401; www.ristoranteancoralivorno.com ; Scali delle Ancora 10; meals €35; lunch & din-
ner summer, Wed-Mon winter) Gorgeous! Its canal-side terrace is the white-hot ticket in good
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