Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( 05 847 00 10; http://ristorantefilippo.com ; Via Stagio Stagi 22; meals €30; lunch & dinner, closed
Mon winter) This exceptional foodie address never disappoints. Cuisine is seasonal and
as creative as the interior design. Its salads in particular are superb, as are its unusual pasta
primi . Arrive before 1pm to ensure a table; reserve in advance to dine after dusk.
L'Enoteca Marcucci
( 05 8479 1962; www.enotecamarcucci.it ; Via Garibaldi 40; 10am-1pm & 5pm-1am Tue-Sun)
Taste fine Tuscan wine, perched on bar stools at high wooden tables or beneath big para-
sols on the street outside. Whichever you pick, the distinctly funky, artsy spirit of Pi-
etrasanta's best-loved enoteca enthrals.
WINE BAR
TOP OF CHAPTER
Livorno
POP 156,800
Tuscany's second-largest city is a quintessential port town. Though first impressions are
unlikely to be kind, this is a 'real' city that really does grow on you. Its seafood is the best
on the Tyrrhenian coast, its historic quarter threaded with Venetian-style canals is shabby-
chic, and pebbly beaches stretch south from the town's belle époque seafront. Be it a short
stay between ferries or a day trip from Florence or Pisa, Livorno (Leghorn in English) is
understated and agreeable.
 
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