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( www.pizzeriadafelice.com ; Via Buia 12; focaccias €1-3, pizza slices €1.30; 10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat)
This buzzing local, which has sat behind Piazza San Michele since 1960, is easy to spot -
come noon look for the crowd packed around two tiny tables inside, spilling out the door
or squatting on one of two street-side benches. Cecina and castagnacci are the raison
d'être .
Trattoria da Leo
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TRATTORIA
( 05 8349 2236; Via Tegrimi 1; meals €25; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) A veteran everyone
knows and loves, Leo is famed around town for its friendly ambience and cheap food -
which ranges from plain Jane acceptable to grandma delicious. Get here early in summer
to snag one of 10 checked-cloth-draped tables crammed beneath parasols on the narrow
street outside. No credit cards.
Cantine Bernardini
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TUSCAN €€
( 05 8349 4336; www.cantinebernardini.com ; Via del Suffragio 7; meals €40; lunch & dinner Tue-
Sun) This maze of a hybrid osteria - enoteca , hidden in the red-brick vaulted cellars of
16th-century Palazzo Bernardini, has got the balance just right. Seasonal Tuscan dishes
tempt, and the wine list is exceptional. Extra kudos for the kids' menu and Friday-evening
DJs and live music.
Canuleia
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( 05 8346 7470; Via Canuleia 14; meals €35; lunch & dinner Tue-Sun) What makes this dining
location stand out from the crowd is its secret walled garden out the back - the perfect
spot to escape the tourist hordes and listen to birds tweet over partridge risotto, artichoke
and prawn spaghetti or a traditional peposa (beef and pepper stew).
TUSCAN €€
Osteria Baralla
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OSTERIA €€
( 05 8344 0240; www.osteriabaralla.it ; Via Anfiteatro 5; meals €30; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) This
traditional osteria dating to 1860 is in every guidebook, and for good reason. Feast on loc-
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