Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Sights
Threading its way through the medieval heart of the old city, cobbled
Via Fillungo
is full of
sleek, modern boutiques housed in great old buildings - cast your eyes above the street-
level bustle to appreciate ancient awnings and architectural details.
East of Via Fillungo is one of Tuscany's loveliest piazzas, oval, cafe-studded
Piazza An-
fiteatro
, so called after the amphitheatre that was located here in Roman times. Look
closely to spot remnants of the amphitheatre's brick arches and masonry on the exterior
walls of the medieval houses ringing the piazza.
Palazzo Pfanner
PALACE
(
www.palazzopfanner.it
; Via degli Asili 33; palace or garden adult/reduced €4.50/4, both €6/5; 10am-6pm
summer)
Fire the romantic in you with a stroll around this beautiful 17th-century palace
where parts of
Portrait of a Lady
(1996) starring Nicole Kidman and John Malkovich were
shot. Its baroque-styled garden - the only one of substance within the city walls - is irres-
istible with its ornamental pond, belle époque lemon house and 18th-century statues of
Greek gods posing between potted lemon trees.
Afterwards, climb the grand outdoor staircase to the frescoed and furnished
piano nobile
(main reception room), home to Felix Pfanner, an Austrian émigré who first brought beer
to Italy - and brewed it in the mansion's cellars from 1846 until 1929. In summer,
chamber-music concerts are often held here.
City Wall
Lucca's monumental
mura
(wall) was built around the old city in the 16th and 17th centur-
ies and remains in almost perfect condition due to the long periods of peace the city has en-
joyed. It's 12m high and 4km long; the ramparts are crowned with a tree-lined footpath that
looks down on the
centro storico
and out towards the Apuane Alps.
This path is the favourite Lucchesi location for a
passeggiata
, be it on foot, bicycle or
inline skate. Children's playgrounds, swings and picnic tables beneath shady plane trees
add a buzz of activity to Baluardo San Regolo, Baluardo San Salvatore and Baluardo Santa
Croce - three of the 11 bastions studding the way - and older kids kick balls around on the
vast green lawns of Baluardo San Donato.
CITY WALLS
Cattedrale di San Martino
CATHEDRAL
